Day Trip to Pisa and Lucca in Tuscany

Ciao Famiglia e Amici!!

Ok so I am the worst at staying updated on my blog entries, but hopefully this week I can get all caught up!

So, several weeks ago, November 8th to be exact, Caroline, my friend Allie and I took a day trip to Pisa and Lucca, Italian towns in Toscana. We wanted to do a small trip somewhere in Italy, and these two towns are a perfect distance from us in Rome. However, as fun and easy as a day trip sounds, we found ourselves with a few too many snafus, running for trains, getting stuck in the rain, and losing train tickets!! And unfortunately, that last one is my fault :(

Early, early Saturday morning, we took a train out of Termini (Rome's station) to Pisa, a four hour trip, which passed fairly quickly since we slept most of the way. As we sat in the cafe in Termini station having our usual cappuccino and cornetto, we were completely oblivious to the fact our platform was about a 8 minute walk/run from the main platforms. And so began the first of many sprints to trains, literally pulling away seconds after we boarded. It was a day of close-calls, but I guess there is some adventure in that!! We were surprised when the conductor never came by to collect our tickets, joking that we wasted our 40 euro on an unnecessary ticket. From the Pisa station, we had to run to our connecting train to Lucca, which, again, we barely made it to!

Once in Lucca, we couldn't have been happier for a lazy afternoon exploring the walled, Tuscan city. Lucca is like something out of a movie or book, the epitome of relaxed Italian culture, with a focus on food, wine, and rest! It is famous throughout the country for its perfectly maintained Renaissance city walls; today the city has expanded beyond the walls, but the center of the city (and the less modernized area) still remains within the walls. As the walls lost their military importance, they became a sort of pedestrian promenade for the town's inhabitants and travelers alike. Today, if you visit the city, you'll find groups of old Italian mammas strolling around the perimeter, their husbands sitting on park benches playing game after game of chess, a young child learning to ride her bike along side her papa, packs of runners lapping the gawking tourists slowly walking around, and finally, countless Luccans riding their bikes all around the city, carrying market-goods and flowers in their baskets. It truly is one of the most quintessential, picturesque scenes I've encountered in Italia, a refreshing change from the busy city life of Roma.


Meganne, our RA back in Rome, recommended the city for a casual day trip, and it was exactly what I needed - an escape from the chaos of home and a chance to clear my head and indulge in a day for myself. We started off our journey with a passeggiata around the city walls, taking in the beauty of fall that we seldom see in the big city. We stumbled upon a large outdoor market, selling everything from food, wine, underwear!, clothes, jewelry, shoes, books, etc. That's pretty much how most Italian markets are composed....an eclectic mix of anything and everything you could possibly want, all at ridiculously cheap prices . But with the good, you also deal with the pushy Italian ladies trying to get their apples before you, the pestering vendors, trying to sell the most pointless items, and you have to wander....at what cost to someone else are these prices so low. Anyway, I guess that is life, taking the good with the bad.

From the market, we began our walk down the main streets of the city, stopping in small shops and specialty food stores for tasters and little souveniers. Lucca is known throughout Italia and the world for its incredible production of some of the best olive oil in the world. So of course, I couldn't miss out on a chance to try and buy some of the best in the world!!! Its strange to think that just a few short years ago, I wouldn't go near the stuff. I felt like I had really come so far, as I sought out the delicious ingredient all day! We found a wonderful, unassuming shop, selling meats, cheeses, oils, vinegars, drinks, etc. and decided to indulge. The store owners, a husband and wife, were so welcoming, telling us about the notorious Italian product and inquiring about who we were and what brought us to Lucca. As I left the store, he said "Ciao, Ci Vediamo LA-Wisconsin lady!" I love Italia!

Making our way toward the center of the city, we visited the city's Duomo, San Martino Basilica, the clock tower, and then stopped for a long lunch beside the Duomo. Meganne had told us about her 3 hour lunch in Lucca with her friend - and we knew that was a must to complete our casual day out and about in Tuscany. We ate at a small cafe, and given it was a cool fall day, we enjoyed warm zuppa di fagioli e verdure, delicious crusty bread, and of course a crisp, cool glass of white wine! Perfetto!! Sitting outside, we watched townspeople ride by on their bikes or walk past with their puppies. It was the perfect way to spend a beautiful afternoon in Tuscany.

UNTIL.....I reached into my purse to check the time of our train home, and discovered the tickets were no where to be found!!! The travel agent had put all three tickets on one ticket, and I was supposed to be the responsible one! And I failed. We retraced our steps, but I assume that they fell out in the hustle after our first train in Pisa. My relaxed state soon gave way to a very stressed out one, worrying how we would get home without having to fork out more money I did not have. I tried to forget about it, enjoying my favorite nocciola gelato (hazelnut....its the absolute best!) and shopping for more chocolates and treats. But I was definitely worried.

Before we knew it, we had to run back to the Lucca train station to catch our train to Pisa, only a 30 minute trip. Again, we almost missed it! The train took a little longer than we expected, leaving us with only a half hour to spend in Pisa - just enough to take some funny pictures with the Leaning Tower and then leave. From what we've heard from most people, there isn't much to do in Pisa besides the Tower; its more of a passing-through town. But it was worth it to get to see the Leaning Tower....which is really amazing! We got there right at sunset, in time for some beautiful pictures and some inappropriate ones :) Its really quite a funny site, because you look around and everyone is trying to get the perfect picture of themselves holding up the tower! I have to admit, I got a few of my own too!

With only a few minutes to spare when we got to our train, we began our trip home to Roma...illegally!! Ahh I was hoping the conductor would 1) not check our tickets again, or 2) be kind enough to let us go easy. We sat with a young student from Portugal studying in the Erasmus program (Europe's foreign study program), who overheard us talking about our little problem. He understood and spoke Italian much more fluently than us, so when the conductor finally did come by, I batted my eyelashes and smiled a huge American smile and our new friend did all the talking! I felt pretty pathetic, but what do you know...It worked! He just shook his head at us and walked on by. Oh well, at least we really did buy a ticket....we just had no proof. The whole time I kept thinking about what my friend Kelly reminded me of before leaving - Always make copies of your tickets! Oops. I guess you have to make mistakes in order to really learn, or at least I do.

But we made it home safe, with a wonderful day of exploration and adventure behind us. I slept the best I have all semester that night!

Noi abbiamo un nuovo presidente....FORZA OBAMA

I have never been prouder to be an American as I was on election day and more so the day after! Since arriving in Rome, I have been trying my hardest to fit in, to look and act and speak like an Italian. But November 4th and 5th, I wanted everyone to know I was an American. And still, I am so proud of my country and the change that will hopefully come to our country and world.

I was able to vote absentee, which was very important to me. This was my first election that I was eligible to vote, and I feel it is our duty to do so. I was only able to watch coverage on my computer, with my terrible internet connection, but I tried to keep up with it throughout the day. It didn't help that I had a huge Art History exam the next day. The time difference also made it next to impossible to stay up and watch all of the coverage. But I'll never forget the feeling of waking up to my roommates telling me "WE did it! HE did it!" We all gathered around my tiny bed and watched his acceptance speech from Chicago, and looked at the map of the states, colored red and blue.

Anyway, I just feel so fortunate, so blessed to have been born in America and have the privilege to vote and participate in our government and more importantly our future. Whatever your beliefs or opinions, it seems to be a consensus around the world that this is a monumental, historical day in our history, and I can't believe I was a part of it. I do wish I could have been in the states for the election, to feel the excitement and intensity of the moment. It is an interesting perspective for my brother Justin and I to be abroad at this time, and to watch the world's interest and reaction to our country's election. My hope now is that these promises for change will be carried out in political, economic, social, domestic and foreign policy in our country. Watching the coverage, I couldn't help but think about Tim Russert, and how much he would have loved this. He was such a role model for me, and hearing him speak about it in person last April, you knew that this would be one of the highlights of his career. I loved Tom Brokaw's reflection when he said that the election of Barack Obama and the subsequent effects of his presidency are sweeping and the magnitude still not comprehensible to us. Obama's campaign and election has instilled in all Americans the desire for "a re-enlistment of citizenship," that anyone can become president (even Justin!!) if they work hard enough, that nothing is impossible. As a young adult, there is nothing more exciting than that prospect!!

Il Viaggio a Sud d'Italia

Allora, its been far too long since I've written an entry, so here we go! So much has happened in the last week or two --- lots of adventures in Italia. As a sort of fall break/class field trip, the St. Mary's program has a trip to Southern Italy every fall semester. Mostly, the focus is on the ancient ruins of the area, but we also got in some great sightseeing as well.

The trip began Tuesday the 28th at 6am in the morning...or at least that's when we had to be on the bus. The program is anal about promptness, which often doesn't bode well with my constant tardiness! (Thanks mom and dad!!) But I made it to our Mercedes coach bus, half-asleep but present. Our first stop of the trip was the amazingly rich and incredibly Pompeii, the ruined and still partially buried Roman city, dating back to the 7th-6th century BC. As some may know, Pompeii was completely destroyed and covered in AD 79, when Mount Vesuvius erupted and buried Pompeii under many meters of ash. However, it is to our great advantage today that Vesuvius erupted, because the burial of the city preserved much of the ancient city, until its rediscovery in the the 18th century. Today, when you visit Pompeii, you can still see original frescoes, architecture, mosaics, and most amazingly.....plaster casts of human and animal figures. Giuseppe Fiorelli, an archaeologist in charge of the excavations in the mid-1800's, discovered voids in the ash layer that contained remains of decomposed bodies. He came up with the idea to inject plaster into the areas to perfectly recreate the forms of the volcano's victims. The plaster casts are scattered throughout the premise, and can also be found in the Archaeological Museum in Naples; its somewhat haunting to see the human forms in twisted, helpless positions, capturing the moment of their almost instantaneous death.

In art history and archeology class in Rome, much of our study thus far has been focused on the ancient culture of Rome, including the Etruscans and the Pompeians. Many of us were assigned oral, on-site presentations at many of these locations. My presentation was on the House of the Faun (Casa del Fauno), one of the largest private complexes in the city, rich and glorious in its day. It once housed the famous Alexander the Great Mosaic, as well as the bronze Dancing Faun, which the house is named after. I had to take my group on a tour of the house, which stretched more than 3000 square meters. An interesting fact, the word casa is used only for homes within the city. Villa is used only for the homes outside the city. Many rich families would have both a casa and villa, the equivalent of a vacation home and permanent residence. This can be seen all over Rome today. The area I live in (Cuore della citta a Roma) is like the Beverly Hills or Brentwood of Rome, so many of the residents live in their city flat for the week and escape to their villa for the weekend. Just an example of how people really haven't changed much since antiquity!!

We spent about 8 hours at Pompeii, walking the whole complex, with occasional student presentations, but mostly just listening to our professor speak about the complex and the history of it. Professor De Sena, the archeology professor, was my guide; this trip was his 3rd time to Pompeii in 3 weeks! Its safe to say he is an expert on the topic.

When it was time to leave Pompeii, I couldn't have been happier to see our Mercedes autobus!! We all fell asleep on the ride to Napoli, only to awake to one of the most dirty cities I've ever seen!! Before getting off the bus, our professors warned us numerous times to get off and get our bags as quickly as possible, because there will be gypsies and pickpockets just waiting for us!! Oh great...I can't wait!! We stayed at Hotel Prati, located right near the Stazione. Now in most cities in Europe, the area around the train station is never the nicest, but this was about as far from our "cuore della Roma" at Hotel Tiziano as possible. We were told not to leave the hotel alone, for good reason. Looking for dinner that night in the rain, we literally ran to "Ciao Pizza" for a quick slice of the famous Neapolitan pizza, and then ran home, amongst the countless homeless, staring, eerie groups of young men, and wandering gypsies. I would like to say that I am somewhat cultured and familiar with city life, especially after living in LA and now Roma. But I was not prepared for Napoli!! As the third most populated city in Italy, behind Rome and Milan, with its rich culture, history, and gastronomy, I expected Napoli to be much different. However, the idealized image of Naples is one of the past. Today, Naples suffers with many problems, including the extremely prevalent Camorra, a mafia group originating in the city and the region of Calabria. The camorra has infiltrated much of Neapolitan life, affecting the city and the people in numerous ways. The trash is another huge problem for Napoli; as we drove out of the city on day 2, I looked out the window to see underpasses filled at least 10 feet high with mounds of trash, with a young family helplessly fishing through the piles. So very sad to see the realities of life for many people.

Day 2 of the southern Italy trip was amazing, even though we were on the bus for over 6 hours! We did the famous drive down the Amalfi Coast of Southern Italy, which takes about 3 hours in the bus. Most bus drivers won't even do it, because the roads are incredibly small and winding, but we were lucky enough to be able to experience the beauty of the drive. I have never in my life seen anything so beautiful; God truly kissed this area with the utmost splendor and striking magnificence. California looks so pathetic in comparison to the beautifully blue and green and white Mediterranean sea, complimented by the rocky cliff-sides spotted with white and yellow villas and small towns. Its a place most people only dream about....and I experienced it first hand! There is nothing like driving along the edge of the cliffs, hundreds of feet high, to look out at endless blue, the sea meeting the sky at the horizon almost seamlessly, creating an eternal fusion of beauty and life. We were able to have a few hours in the small sea town of Amalfi, to get lunch, visit the Duomo, and shop! Amalfi is one of the original and primary towns producing Limoncello!! For those unfamiliar with the potent liquid, its a lemon flavored liquor, produced from the rind of the lemons, which grow fruitfully on all the trees in the area. Che bello!! To be quite honest, I hate the stuff! Its way to strong for my tastes, but I'm told that its an acquired taste, like grappa and sambucca. But I don't think I'm here long enough to acquire the taste....nor do I want to. Il vino is all I need! I did bring some back as souvenirs, just for fun. We only had an hour and half or so....far too short a time for such a beautiful place. I could have stayed there for weeks, taking in the scene, eating gelato and lounging at the Mediterranean. If only....

We continued our way down the coast, heading for our next site of ancient ruins...Paestum. In Paestum are the most well-preserved Greek temples, created by the Etrucans in the Greek style....think Parthenon!! We toured the museum at the site, housing many of the artifacts from this complex, of which only about 10% has been excavated. Its an archaeologist's heaven...with so much to be discovered. Both here and in Pompeii, many archaeological digs have been stopped, reserving the remaining areas for later generations to investigate with their greater technological advances. It was amazing to see these temples up close....so well-preserved. Since I probably won't make it to Athens, this was a nice alternative for now.

Day 3 ---- Finally to the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I can't tell you how many slides I have seen of artifacts, statues, paintings, etc housed in this famous museum. Breaking up into 3 groups, we each rotated through the 3 professors, lecturing on their specialty (painting, sculpture, and all the rest!!). The morning was jam-packed with hundreds of things to see, including the famous Doryphorus (Spear-bearer), which was on my Art History exam the following week!! Visiting these museums really brings the art history books to life, making all my studying of history and art the past 10 years or so well worth it.

After visiting the museum, we were able to explore this area of Naples and get lunch....more Neapolitan pizza! Side note on the famous pizza...they are known for the use of buffalo mozzarella (produced by the water buffalo in the area), and the amazing red sauces used. The pizza is usually swimming in the perfectly seasoned pomodori sauce with about 4 or 5 small balls of mozzarella quickly melting into the sauce. Molto delizioso!! From downtown Napoli, we drove to Cumae, the first, ancient Greek settlement on the mainland of Italy, most notably known for being the seat of the Cumaean Sibyl. Its greatest significance is in Roman mythology, containing the route that Aeneas used to descend to the Underworld. Because of the references in mythology, the mythology class in the program presented on Virgil's Aeneid , as we all stood in the rain in the Cave of the Sibyl. It was slightly eerie, but a very cool experience, all of us bundled up together, listening to stories of Roman mythology.

That night, we found a restaurant close to our hotel, serving delicious southern Italian fare for fairly cheap....actually so cheap, my meal wasn't even included on the bill. I decided to help pay for the service charge instead! I got pasta all'arrabbiata, my new favorite dish here...its usually with linguine or my favorite, penne, and its super spicy!! I've had it at home, but honestly, the flavors are beyond comparison. The dish, with all its flavor and spice, embodies Italian cooking....richness of flavor, freshness, perfection of the art. One of the most upsetting things about Napoli was the lack of gelaterie! Usually after dinner, it is customary (at least in my life here) to get a few scoops of gelato, to finish off the celebration of food that I call a meal. Napoli = no gelato! I was deprived of the smooth delicacy most of the week, and I realized how painful unsatisfactory "fro-yo" will be when I return to school.

Day4 ---- Happy Halloween!! The last of our museums/on-site tours....which I admittedly was thrilled about. The density with which we saw ruin after ruin became all too monotonous for my taste. But we definitely ended on a high note, with our visit to Museo e Palazzo di Capodimonte, the former palazzo of the kings of Sicilia. It has been proclaimed as the most beautiful museum in all of Italy, and possibly of all of Europe. You can feel the grandeur of the place the minute you arrive, with overwhelming architecture and rich color on the exterior. The interior has fabric covered walls in rich reds and blues, with original wall paintings, gold decorations, and 18th century antique furniture. The framework of the palazzo/museo is complimented by the richness of paintings and sculpture which line the walls and halls of the former residence. Major works of Raphael, Caravaggio, El Greco, Martini, and Titian (for whom our Hotel Tiziano is named after...his former residence) are all contained in the Capodimonte. We got dressed up to visit this museum, as it is definitely a significant place.

The rest of the day was ours to explore....the port of Naples and the fancier areas of the city. It was like I was in a whole new city, with Prada, Gucci, and Louis flanking the streets, with fancy cafes and beautiful buildings containing the flats of the rich and famous everywhere we looked. We stopped in for lunch at the first place we saw, only to be completely ignored and pushed off to the side by the waiter, in favor of the wealthy Italian ladies at the table next to us. Well, we immediately got up and left...finding a cafe more our style, with fun waiters and (relatively) cheaper food. I didn't dare venture into any of the designer stores...knowing even the grandest of budgets would not allow for purchases there. We window shopped, practiced our Italian on the locals, and watched little bambini run around in their Halloween costumes asking for candy. It made me miss home though, thinking of all the Halloweens mom would make me wear turtlenecks because it was too cold (aka 60 degrees), we would grab the largest pillowcase we could find, and head out with Dad and Mario for the bluff to get the huge candy bars and then to the Mini Mansion! Time really does fly by!

5th and Final Day --- CAPRI This was the day most everyone was looking forward to the whole trip. The weather had been bad the past few days, so we weren't sure the boats would make it over, but when we arrived at 7, the trip was a go! Capri is the small island off the coast of Napoli....about a 45 minute boat ride across. Doesn't sound too bad, right? WRONG! I've never been sea sick until this death cruise across the port to the island. It started out funny, rocking up and down, but turned bad quickly. I should have known when they passed out trash bags to everyone and wouldn't let passengers sit in the front half of the boat. The sea was so rough, the hydrofoil was flying up in the air and crashing down into the waves every few seconds. I tried my best to stay calm, but nothing worked. Half the boat got sick! When I got off, I was about as white as a ghost, and I kept telling the girls that I refused to get back on....I was staying in Capri! At this point, the day had nowhere to go but up!!

When you arrive in Capri, you have to take a shuttle up to the main part of the island. The view was spectacular, not a cloud in the sky...and if possible, even more beautiful than the Amalfi Coast. The town is so cute, with small cafes and gelaterie, and tons of touristy shops. But beyond all that is the pure beauty of the place, the lush vegetation, the blue Mediterranean as a backyard, the rocky cliffs that make up the island, and the small villas and shops which blend into the landscape of the island perfectly. The island is made up of two towns...Capri and Anacapri. I still don't know the difference, although I think Anacapri is more touristy and Capri is more locals. Just a short bus ride apart, we went to Anacapri first, for an amazing chair lift to the top of the island for the most spectacular views one could ever imagine. The ride up was a little scary, especially since I was so excited that I forgot to put down my safety bar until the very end!! But you are never very far from the ground. The chair lift goes right over the villas of the locals, with their small grape vineyards, and from the top, you have a bird's eye view of the island and the Mediterranean, stretching for miles. The soft clouds came over gradually when we got to the top of the island, and their reflection in the sea was beautiful. As you stand looking over the edge of the cliff, you feel the eternity of life, the endlessness of the world, and you feel like you're at the very top of it all!

We did a little shopping after the ride, but I refrained from buying the handmade leather sandals that the island is known for...molto caro!! One of my favorite things to get anywhere I go is postcards! There cheap (the stamps are more expensive) and they are great memories of where I've been. I like to send one to myself from everywhere I go too, another thing for my scrapbook! Most of my friends make fun of me when they see me making out a postcard to myself, but I'll be a great souvenir.

I decided to make gelato my lunch for the day, along with far too many cappuccini!! I was a little shaky by the end of the day, with all that sugar and caffeine! But I loved every minute of being able to just relax and take in the scenery and the Capri lifestyle. There is no better place to learn to live in the moment than in small Italian towns. The people understand that work is secondary to enjoying life to the fullest...hence the 3 or 4 hour "siestas" everyday during and after lunch. Tourists get so frustrated, but they must adapt and understand, not complain. You learn the importance of slowing down and savoring the moments, because they're gone before you know it.
Before boarding the death boat home, Caroline and I collected sea glass and dipped our feet in the water, trying to get our minds off the impending boat ride. When I finally forced myself onto the boat, we got comfortable seats near the back, in case we needed to get to the outside of the boat quickly!!! As we were about to leave, a team of soccer players stormed the boat, of course interested in our group of 50 girls....and vice versa!! They were only about 16 or 17, playing in the equivalent of a division 2 team in Napoli. Some decided to sit across from us on the boat, and talked the whole way back...a nice distraction to keep me from puking...although I did warn them I might get sick again! It was fun to practice Italian with them, and watch them struggle with their English....that must be what I sound like!

When I made it to land and boarded our bus home, my relief turned to exhaustion, and I slept the whole way home! Yes, home, home in ROME! I've never been so happy to see my beautiful city, to feel the comforts of familiar settings, familiar people, GELATO, the Tiziano, my room! I never thought that Rome could become a home, but it really has. I love it more and more each day. It ceases to amaze, excite, engage, encourage, and thrill me! Its my home away from home.

Off to Southern Italy

I'm leaving in just a few short hours for Southern Italy....Napoli, Pompeii, Paestum, Amalfi Coast, and Capri!! It is a class trip, with tours, lectures, and the occasional free time. Unfortunately, the bad weather has spread from the states to Italy, and it is supposed to rain all week long. Usually the forecasters are wrong over here, so hopefully that trend will continue. I will write all about my journey when I return home to Roma. Thanks again to everyone keeping up with my long, detailed stories on here. Stay warm in the snow!! Love to all. Ciao Ciao

Firenze e Siena

Ciao...I'm back from a short, yet wonderful weekend away in Florence and Siena. We were only in Florence for exactly 24 hours, but with that small taste of the grandeur and beauty of art and culture in this Renaissance town, I am already anxious to go back.

My first train ride in Italia was quite the experience. We had the train to ourselves for the first half of the trip, so we unknowingly chose the first class seats, in the rooms with sliding doors. It was perfect, we could stretch out and relax in a little room by ourself, with 3 seats facing 3 seats. Well, this backfired when the train got busier and busier as we inched through Toscana. First came the creepy man who sat down across from Caroline with his fanny pack...more about him later. Then, I was abruptly awaken by an old Italian lady, who smelled of cheap perfume and beans, who wanted me to schooch over so she had more room. All my hopes at sleep were completely dashed when another large Italian mamma sat across from me, staring at me the rest of the way to Firenze. Ok, so back to the creepy man, this is a little gross, but I have to share it because it was part of my first European train experience. As I was squished in the middle seat, I looked around and noticed that this man (not necessarily an Italian, but definitely European) was rubbing his belly - gross to begin with. Upon a second glance, it was not his belly, but a little south of there!!!!! I was absolutely mortified and disgusted...so I tried to turn away and look out the window, but every time we went through a tunnel, I could see him through the reflection! I decided to just close my eyes, imagine not being on this terrible train and just hope to get to Firenze as soon as possible. Hank and Caroline were oblivious somehow, so it wasn't until after I got off the train that I could vent to someone. AHHH I really don't know what people are thinking sometimes. So let's just say it wasn't the most elegant way to enter Florence, but the trip had nowhere to go but up from there.

Some other St. Mary's girls were on our train and were staying at the same hostel, so we all navigated our way out of the station and through the streets to Plus Florence, a new hostel and one of many in Italy and Europe. It was surprisingly clean and offered all sorts of activities and amenities, especially for people staying throughout the week. I felt like I was at a dorm...with nightly themed parties (Wednesday Toga Party, Spaghetti Saturday, etc.), internet cafe downstairs, pool tables, daily outings in the city and throughout Toscana, even a spa (hostel-style, mind you). We obviously didn't have time to spend in the hostel, with only 24 hours to explore this amazing city, but it was nice not to have a horror of a terrible hostel, especially my first experience in one. I forgot to take a picture of it, but we were able to get a 3-person private room with a bathroom, for only 15 euro a night! It was clean (most important thing), comfortable (relatively), and safe.

After dropping off our backpacks, we set out for the David! The Accademia is the museum where the David is housed, but we were told we would need a reservation in order to get in. We decided to wing it, and just stand in line. It only took about a half hour, before we paid the steep 10 euro admission fee. One downside to Florence...you pay to go in just about anywhere....churches, museums, towers, etc. But I definitely thought it was worth it, to see such an amazing piece of sculpture and beauty. The first room of the Accademia (a very small museum) is filled with Renaissance paintings and Giambologna's beautiful Rape of Sabine Women (another copy is also outside in the Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence...I saw it as well). However, the excitement of everyone in the museum to see the David is clearly apparent. Everyone, including me, seemed to browse past the paintings, feeling the necessity to pay them respect; meanwhile, the mind is consumed by the anticipation of the grandeur that awaits in the next room. When you walk into the next room, Michelangelo's David looms in the vaulted room, standing 17 glorious marble feet tall. His sheer size, as well as Michelangelo's incredible genius are unimaginable until you see him up close, from all angles. As one girl in the museum said, you wonder how huge Goliath must have been :) All around him stood beastly women guards shouting "no foto!!". Well I believe that Michelangelo would have wanted his audience to come home with a visual memory of his masterpiece...which is why I secretly took 2 pictures!! I couldn't help myself!

After the Galleria dell'Accademia, we wandered (getting lost many times) to the Duomo, Piazza San Giovanni, and Giotto's Bell Tower. We went in the Duomo, which is mostly void of artifacts because they are housed in museums now, but it was still beautiful. The outside is overwhelming, as there are too many focal points, too much to look at, a feast for the eyes!! We opted not to climb the tower and the dome, which I now regret. But maybe next time. Brunelleschi's dome is unbelievable, and the Duomo is one of the world's largest churches. Michelangelo's dome over San Pietro was modeled after Brunelleschi's. The whole masterpiece is a wonderful example of the mastery and accomplishment of the Florentine Gothic period. It is the jewel of la citta.

From there, we stumbled upon an open-air market (il mio favorito!!) with stands devoted solely to apples, wine, cheese, meats, other fresh fruits, clothes, etc. It was late in the day, and the Florentine shop owners looked weary and overheated, yet they still offered samples and engaged in broken Italian with us. The apples were unbelievable, definitely as good as or better than the Wisconsin varieties back home. Something about their sweetness and texture - not tart, not sweet...perfectly juicy and delicious. A table with pasta sauces was giving out samples, which were wonderful, homemade and jarred by the women sitting in front of me. The wines were abounding, which was to be expected being in the Toscana region. An old woman gave us sample cups and continued to refill them until we purchased a bottle. Luckily, Hank and Caroline are fans of vino rosso (red wine), my favorite! We got a local variety for only 3 euro (1 euro each!!), and enjoyed it later that night. Santa Croce stood at the end of this piazza, and we ventured over to the famous church after our purchases at the market.

Resting at Piazza della Signoria for an afternoon siesta, we people-watched among famous sculptures and fountains in one of Italy's most beautiful squares. Michelangelo's David once stood in this square, but was moved inside to prevent damage. An inferior copy stands in the square today, but is under renovation currently. In the Loggia della Signoria, we sat on the steps surrounded by a gallery of sculpture, protected only by an overhang.

Its an amazing feeling to be sitting among such famous pieces of art and architecture, to walk where the greatest artists, politicians, royalty, writers, scientists once strolled, even to visit a place where millions of people throughout the world have been, and where millions more will someday come. In the same moment, you feel important and grateful, but also so insignificant and small in the scope of the world - present, past and future. Its a feeling unknown, at least to me, in the States; but it is an altogether necessary feeling, putting your life in perspective. As Americans (especially young Americans), you feel as though the world revolves around you and your every move, and there is often little sense of what came before this very day, before your lifetime. But here in Florence and Roma, and throughout Europe, if you open your eyes and truly see, you understand and appreciate history and your existence in it. Rather than becoming overwhelmed and disheartened by the reality of your small place in the world, I have found it encouraging. Yes, so many greats have come before me, but so many are still to come....and I could be one of them, in large and small ways.

Ok sorry to be philosophical...anyway, back to Florence. The nighttime in Firenze was definitely my favorite. The city seems to come alive. All the filth, all the tourists, all the vendors, all the traffic seem to disappear with the sunset over the Arno; the sparkle of street lights, the musicians playing on street corners, the small cafes opening for dinner, the lovers sitting on the Ponte Vecchio, the Italians taking their passeggiatas....amongst the commotion, there is a serenity about it. We ate dinner at Trattoria Buzziono, a small restaurant hidden on a small street we just happened to pass by. Not only was it delicious, but the atmosphere made it a perfect end to the day, red-checkered table cloths, an old man taking our orders (speaking only Italian) while his wife cooks our food and clears our tables in the back, and a younger man (maybe their son) seats people and socializes. Many locals came in for dinner while we were there, kissing the old man on the cheeks and sitting in their "usual" spot. After a long day of tourism and exploration, I felt so at ease here...I felt at home.

Taking our wine from the market to the Ponte Vecchio after dinner, we found a great spot among the couples, young and old, on the center of the bridge. The Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) is one of the only original bridges which survived the Nazi invasions and bombings during WWII. During the day, it is flanked with shops and vendors, selling everything from the finest leather and jewelry, to cheap Florentine souvenirs. However, at night, everything is closed, and the bridge is filled with some tourists, but also locals, enjoying the romance and beauty of the view of the Arno and the city from the bridge. A middle-aged man sat down and set up his guitar and played the most beautiful music throughout the night, including Andrea Bocelli (my favorite). However, being there amongst the beauty of the city, the serene river, the music, the vino, you can't help but want to be with the one you love. I can't wait to come back here with you some day sweetheart. But until then, my friends made for great company, and put up with my singing! I couldn't help but sing along with Andrea Bocelli!!

Getting up the next morning for mass was difficult, but we did it! We went to Santa Maria Novella, located near the train station, for 8:30 mass. Its a beautiful church, with black and white zebra stripes on the outside, and ornate frescos and statues inside. I was surprised by how few people were in mass, but I guess that Italians aren't really the best mass-goers. It was all said in Italian, and I found myself so tired, trying to translate everything in my head. But, its always a cool experience to go to mass when you travel, especially in Italy (as mamma always said!)

Then, we were off to Siena, a short train ride along the Chianti Road (the region producing the delicious wine). It was beautiful, looking out the window to rolling hills of grape vineyards and villas scattered throughout. The colors are like nothing you've seen...its actually fall here, despite the warm weather. But autumn here is much different. The colors are vibrant, but there is still so much green, with spotted purples from the vineyards. Some areas reminded me of the Midwest, but electrified with color, lit on fire by the warm sun. I definitely want to travel back to Italia one day, and devote my entire visit to the rolling hills of Toscana. Renting a villa and wandering the countryside would be perfect. Better yet, moving there permanently would be perfect!! Don't worry mom and dad, I know nothing about running a winery, but the idea sounds wonderful.

Arriving in Siena, we had to take another bus to get to the heart of the city (uphill). We got off the bus too early though, so we found the rest of our way up on foot. It worked out nicely though, seeing some of the neighborhoods, the soccer stadium for A.C. Siena and then visiting Basilica di San Domenico. The soccer stadium was pretty pathetic, about the size of a high school football stadium/track. But we were able to walk right in and stand in the stadium! Despite my disappointment at its size and glory, it was exciting to be able to see it up close. There was barbed wire in front of the seats, to prevent the psycho fans from storming the field. If you didn't know, futbol is a pretty big thing here, and it can get very violent and competitive, very quickly. I'm trying to see a A.S. Roma game, but tickets are expensive, unless you buy them outside the stadium....but there is no guarantee you'll get a real ticket. It would be a great experience, but we would definitely need to bring Hank for protection. Roma fans are some of the worst/most notorious.

Basilica di San Domenico is a beautiful 13th Century church, with a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine of Siena. Inside, Santa Caterina's head and thumb are kept in glass cases on display for visitors. Her head is covered in a wax recreation of what she would have looked like, but it is still slightly creepy. There are frescoes, stained glass, paintings, and sculptures, many of which depict the life of Santa Caterina. We also visited the Casa di Santa Caterina, where she lived most of her life, before dying in Roma in her thirties. It is a simple home, however, decorative elements have been added throughout the years, including paintings and sculpture. In the square outside of her home are several of past pope's busts, including JP II!

From there, we made our way into the center of the city, which resembles Assisi, being built on mountainous ground, and is a perfectly maintain example of the Renaissance life. Because Siena was conquered and economically/politically destroyed by the Florentines during the Renaissance, the city never recovered, and therefore, never progressed architecturally, academically, politically, etc. Because of this, the city is one of the best preserved Renaissance cities. Its beauty is very subtle, yet powerful at the same time. The famous Duomo is an architectural fantasy, known for its black and white zebra interior. From the outside, its similar to its Florentine counterpart, in that it is a feast for the eyes, with a dramatic facade reflecting the Italian Gothic and Romanesque period.

For lunch, we stopped at a bar for panini and coca cola light, and sat on Il Campo and relaxed. Piazza del Campo is shaped like a scalloped shell and slopes downward toward the city's town building. Its has been called the finest of any city in the world, probably because of the harmony with which it fits in to the city and with the people. All day long you'll see couples, families, friends, young children lounging on the Campo, relaxing, people watching, snacking and enjoying the city. We spent about 2 hours there, but I could have sat there all day...plus it helps that the sun was out and its still in the 70's throughout Italia!

I started a book on the way home, Four Seasons in Rome, by Anthony Doerr.....and I read 120 pages just on the train! I couldn't put it down, it was so good. Its a true story about this man and his family who move to Roma for a year while he works at the American Academy for Arts and Sciences, writing his third book. The catch is, he and his wife have just had twins 4 months prior, and they are picking up their entire life in Idaho and moving to a foreign country. The place they lived is right near my location is Roma, and many of the places he writes about I have seen or plan to visit. I definitely suggest it to anyone...its an easy read and very well-written.

Since being home, I've been super busy and trying to catch up on school work. But I'm HOME...yep that's what I called it...HOME! Its been 4 weeks, and I finally feel comfortable here, no longer a tourist. Its a great feeling, almost an accomplishment. Anyway, this week has started off quickly, with exams and papers and projects piling up. I have my first philosophy exam tomorrow morning, my Italian cinema exam Friday, as well as a theology quiz Friday! Tomorrow is my one night to go out....so I think we're going to go to a bar and watch the Roma vs. Chelsea game with some locals!!

Ok well that's enough for now. I'm going to try to get my pictures up tonight, but if not, tomorrow then. Sorry to be so long and wordy! Hope everyone is well.

P.S. Mom and Dad are on facebook...what has the world come to?!?!?!

Il sciopero trasporto...AHHHHH

Ok, so not to be cynical and all critical of Italia, but these strikes have got to go!! We found out yesterday at dinner that a transportation strike was planned for all day today! Yes, they plan the strikes here, about a month or two in advance, go on strike for a day, and then go back to work the next day, with nothing accomplished but a day off. So I should be on a train to Firenze right now, but it was canceled. I guess it has worked out for the best though; we get to relax tonight, have a free dinner at the hotel, save money by not staying at a hostel tonight, and have a good night sleep. But, now we're leaving on a 6am train from Termini and we arrive in Firenze at 9:51, just in time for a great day in the city. We're still visiting Siena on the way home on Sunday, but just a quick trip. The whole trip is quick, but I'm still excited to explore the two cities. Buon fine settimana!! Ciao ciao xoxo

Quasi il fine settimana!!

The school week is almost over...only one more class tonight and one more in the morning......and then I'm off to Firenze! I'm so excited for my first real weekend trip outside of Roma. Don't get me wrong, I love Roma, but it will be nice to explore other parts of Italia as well. We are leaving tomorrow evening after Hank's class, and we get into Firenze around 9pm...just in time for a glass of wine and dessert!! We're staying in a hostel with some other girls from St. Mary's, called Plus Florence (creative name!) , but we have a private room for the 3 of us with a bathroom for only 15,20 euro a night. Not too bad for booking a day before. Unfortunately, we don't have train tickets because the website won't take our credit cards, and the travel agency is ridiculous and has not had internet for two days! Can you imagine something like that at home....losing 2+ days of business because of internet?! It doesn't make sense to me. So we'll just buy tickets at the station tomorrow.

We're spending all day Saturday in Firenze, and then Sunday morning we are taking the train to Siena (just an hour south of Firenze). In order to get to Siena by train, you have to always go through Firenze, so we decided to combine the trips. Siena is home to Italia's patron saint and my Confirmation saint, Catherine of Siena. So I'm excited to see her sanctuary and house (Santuario e Casa di Santa Caterina) as well as Basilica di San Domenico, where a chapel is dedicated to her and her head is buried. Myth says that when she died in Roma of a stroke at a young age, the people of Siena wanted her body, but they didn't think they could get past the Roman guards with her entire body. So, they just took her head and carried it in a bag. The guards still stopped them, so the people prayed to St. Catherine; when the guards opened the bag, all they saw were rose petals. When the people arrived in Siena, her head reappeared in the bag. Kinda spooky! So anyway, Siena is where her head was buried. Her body is buried in the Basilica di Santa Maria sopra Minerva - near the Pantheon. I haven't been there yet, but its on my ever-growing list of places to visit. Anyway, it should be a great weekend. Sam isn't coming because she left today with her boyfriend Brett for a weekend in Capri. We'll all be visiting southern Italia as a class in a week and half.

The week here in Roma has been good, but busy. Everyone is still sick and I am trying to fight a cold. I am feeling a little overwhelmed, because there is so much I want to see and do here, but sometimes I just want to relax and rest during the day. Its the constant balancing act, that after 3 weeks I'm still trying to master. Its like my mom said the other day....Its as if you were trying to go to school and work hard at Notre Dame, while also trying to explore South Bend....only this is on a much bigger scale!!! I just have to take it day by day.

So, tonight I'm hopefully going to go out for a few drinks and enjoy myself since I've been staying in most of the week getting work done. I saw a friend, Melissa, from ND who is in the Architecture program and we're hopefully going to try to meet up later. The girls in my program are hooked on this bar Scholars (an Irish pub...but really just your average American bar) where you will only find the American college students who are studying in Rome. I feel like I can get that same experience back in South Bend at Corby's or the Backer....so why limit myself to that here. Most of the girls in the program are only 18 or 19, so this is their first real experience at a bar. For me, I rather go to Italian bars, sip vino rosso and prova a parlare con gli italiani!!

OK, well I'll write more after my Firenze adventure!! Ciao Ciao

Pictures

FYI: My slide show of pictures on the sidebar just shows a few. If you click on the pictures, I have 3 albums of pictures of my trip thus far. Click on my pictures at the top of the Picasa Web Album page to see all 3 albums. Divertitevi!!

More Adventures in Roma and Lazio

Its been awhile since I last wrote. The days fill up so quickly here and I just don't have enough hours to get everything done! This past school week was good, but assignments and papers are starting up and we're getting into the full swing of things...although, I can't complain, everyone back home is taking midterms this week! My classes are interesting, but its hard to motivate myself to sit in the classroom when all I want to do is be out in Roma.

I usually try to find some time in between my classes to go out exploring, usually with one of my friends, to a different area of Rome at least a few times a week. Hank and I visited the Maritime Prison where St. Peter and Paul were supposedly kept before being killed. Its a small prison, but the downstairs room contains a piece of the column that San Pietro was chained to, and the altar has the upside down cross on it, since he asked to be hung upside down when he was martyred. Also, legend says that a spring of water came up inside the tomb, and Peter and Paul converted the prisoners before they died. It was a cool little site, that if I weren't staying here for 3 months, I probably would have never had time to visit. Hank is really good about getting out in the city and finding interesting places to visit....so I usually tag along.

My roomies, Hank and I all attempted to visit the ND students at their apartments last Thursday, but our friend Patrick forgot to tell us we needed passports to get in. Its a long trip to their neighborhood...kind of the suburbs of Rome. I don't know how they do it everyday, taking the buses (which aren't always reliable). I am spoiled being so close to the classroom and so close to everything and anything you could want in the city!! I'm going to try to go visit again this week, and some of my friends from school are visiting for fall break, so I hope to see them as well.

This past weekend, we had an all day excursion to Tarquinia and Cerveteri, about an hour and half to two hours outside Roma, in Lazio. We left the hotel at 7 and drove about an hour and half to Tarquinia to the site of an ancient Etruscan necropolis. In art history, we have been focusing on the Etruscan peoples, who inhabited these areas in the 5th to 2nd (ish) centuries BC before being conquered by the Romans. So it was cool to see artifacts and tombs that we have been viewing on our boring slide lectures all week. The first site consisted of almost 600 tombs, most of which looked relatively similar, and we were only able to walk down and look through a window at the wall paintings. Then we went to the museum in town which houses much of the pottery, jewelry and other artifacts found in these tombs. Interesting fact, the Etruscans used fire to take all the oxygen out of the tombs, in order to perfectly preserve the bodies. However, when the archaeologists discovered the tombs, within seconds of finding perfectly preserved bodies....the bodies would immediately turn to dust after the exposure to oxygen. I'm not sure how that works...but its according to our professors! Must have been pretty cool to see that. Anyway, after that we went to the beach of Tarquinia (actually called a lido because it is a sandy, not a rocky, hilly beach) which was wonderful and warm and so relaxing. We had a picnic on the beach and some girls (and Hank) swam in the Mediterranean! I just walked along the dark sandy beach and put my feet in the water. It felt like a california beach...but slightly warmer, and much clearer. We even bought wine in town and all shared it on the beach. This time of year, the Italians think its ridiculous to go to the beach...far too cold! So we had the whole beach to ourselves, and it couldn't have been more perfect! We get another getaway at the beach in 2 weeks when we go down to southern Italy for a class trip. We have the whole day free in Capri to go swimming, cliff diving, or whatever we want, which will be great after 3 days of lectures and tours. So on Saturday, we only had an hour at the beach and then it was back to the bus for a 45 minute trip to Cerveteri, another Etruscan necropolis. This one was much more interesting and interactive though. It was a maze of these mound-like tombs, some big enough to hold 30 to 40 people. It was like we were on an Indiana Jones adventure...although much less scary. We were able to climb into most of them and even lay down on the sarcophagi... a little creepy but still fun! For the most part, the Etruscans modeled them after their homes, and used wall paintings to depict the family and their traditions and lifestyle. Tombs and burial grounds tell us so much about groups of people and this was a perfect example of that. When we finally got back on the bus, we all passed out from exhaustion....they keep us going a mile a minute here!

After showering and getting the tombs off of me...we ventured out AGAIN! There was a free MTV concert south of the Colosseum, at Piazza San Giovanni, featuring John Legend and the Cure! Who can pass up a free concert?!?! It was sponsored by Coca Cola, so we got free sodas and waters as well. It was so amazing...you'll have to look at my pictures when I get them up. I look to my right and there is this huge Gothic basilica, lit up by the 21st century stage lights of the concert...the intertwining of old and new is amazing. We got pizza and beer and found a great spot close to the stage. The concert started with lots of Italian bands, including the Italian version of 'NSYNC....so terrible, even the Italians were booing them. Now I understand why everyone loves American popular music. John Legend, an R&B singer, was so awesome...great performer. I had never really heard any of his stuff, but I'm definitely a fan now. And of course, the Cure was just so cool...to see such a huge band for free at an amazing location is beyond cool!! Although the one down side to any event like that here in Roma is the constant smoking...EVERYWHERE!! Even at an outdoor event, there was a huge cloud of smoke over the entire venue. Italians blow the smoke right in your face or hair, and think nothing of it....because everyone does it. And weed too...everywhere. I guess this was technically my first real rock concert...I was a little bit in shock haha but it was a cool experience to be with the locals!

Yesterday, we were suppose to go to Perugia, in Umbria (Northeast of Lazio) for EuroChocolate...a huge chocolate festival. However, we got the dates wrong...its next weekend :( So we went to the train station at 6am, got our refunds, and went back to bed til 2:15. It was the best sleep I've had since getting here. I didn't realize how tired I really was until I let myself take a break, and now that my body has rested, I think I'm getting sick :( Everyone is coming down with colds and the flu, so I'm bound to get it. Its hard with the fast pace we keep here. I've rested a lot today, though, so hopefully I can fight it!

My roommate Sam's boyfriend arrived today for the week, during his fall break. We all just got back from a great dinner near the Pantheon. Only 6 euro!!! we've decided to search for the "specials"...usually consisting of bruschetta, a pizza or pasta, and a drink (hopefully a beer or wine). We found a great place tonight, right next door to our favorite gelateria (della Palma). Seeing Sam so happy with her boyfriend Brett makes me a little jealous...I miss my Kyle so much. Despite all the fun I've been having, I have been having "I miss America" days! The language barrier, the customs, the cost of everything...it weighs on you sometimes. Just little things, like having to pay extra for water and bread, is something I take advantage of at home (No endless Outback bread here!). The feeling comes and goes, and I'm doing ok tonight. I just miss everyone from home.

Ok well, buona notte to all! I'll try to keep the posts more regular. Ciao Ciao

Il settimana 2

My second week of school has started off well, as I'm adjusting to my small, small classes over here in Roma. Its amazing the concentration that comes with being in class with one other person, and being forced to participate and pay attention!! Its normally great, except when class begins at 8am and you're still half asleep, trying to learn about Socrates and Plato. My philo professor is really great though, and he loves to teach over cappuccini e cornetti (my favorites!) He always arrives late, by about 20 minutes, but he says that's how Italians are....always late! My family would fit in perfectly here!! Professor Andrea also consistently goes off on tangents about life, culture, travel, etc....and somehow always finds his way back to philosophy. Yesterday, he was encouraging us to travel to several spots in Italia, including Pisa and a small area of Lazio, north of Roma. His family lives north of Lazio, and he has invited us to visit sometime this semester. I think it would be great to go to a small town and really see how Italians live outside of the major cities.

In order to cure the Monday blues, I walked to il Campo with Caroline to take advantage of the open-air mercato! Its probably one of my favorite places in the city, so far. Its not too large, not too small....perfect size, offering the freshest vegetables and fruits you'll ever taste. I have made friends with some vendors...trying to bargain my way to lower prices. I walked away with 2 humongous peaches, 2 pears, and an apple for 1, 30. Then, I found a cheese and meat station that I like. The owner (or the lady behind the stand) reminds me of a typical Italian mamma.....constantly calling me cara (dear). She let me try some parmigiano, and I was sold at the first bite. Forget the stuff in the green shaker in the grocery stores back home.....this is the real deal! So much flavor, you only need a little bit to satisfy. I also indulged in some green olives...a whole bag for a euro. My philo professor told me about a forno (bakery) at the end of Il Campo, so Caroline and I tried it out. The choices are endless, but we settled on crispy baguettes. We, then proceeded to walk around the city munching and shopping in between classes. I'll definitely be back tomorrow morning :)

Last night, Hank, Caroline and I ventured over to the Spanish Steps for the first time, and brought along a bottle of wine (actually a jug)! The Steps are so fun, with so many different types of people from all over the world. A couple sitting next to us was from San Diego, and the crazy young kids on the other side were on a school trip from Holland. I couldn't believe it when I saw these kids who looked about 13, drinking beers and wine all night long. They started chanting things, almost like soccer/football cheers to some nearby students. I made friends with one boy, who told me they were yelling at the Germans....saying "All the Germans are Gay!" Strange...but they were cheap entertainment. European life is so so very different from American life!!

Il mio giorno con Papa Benny 16

Sunday mass has never been so amazing as it is here in Roma. Two days ago, we went to St. Peter's Basilica for the weekly 10:30 mass at the back altar, behind the main altar. I hadn't yet made the 10 minute trip from our hotel to the Vatican, so I was so excited to see the Basilica di San Pietro, and hopefully get a glimpse of the Papa from his window. Walking into the Square, I was overwhelmed and awestruck by the grandeur, size and beauty of both the Basilica and the colonnade lining the Square. We stood in the center of St. Peter's Square, and Megan gave us a brief tour of what was around us, pointing out the impressive architecture and design that went into this masterpiece. The final product we all see today is actually the work of the most famous, artists of the 16th and 17th centuries, including Michelangelo, Bramante, and Bernini. Any one who was anyone in art at the time would have worked on the Basilica and the Piazza. Finished in 1628, it is seen as the most sacred, celebrated church in all of Christianity. Since as early as 4 AD there has been some form of a church on this site, modified and rebuilt many times until the final construction that we see today. The location use to be called Circus of Nero, and was a open field used for congregating and town activities during the reign of Nero. The obelisk that stands in the center of the square today, was originally standing in Circus of Nero, where San Pietro was later executed in 64 AD, hung UPSIDE DOWN (per his request). He was buried by his followers below Circus of Nero, and the Basilica was built atop his tomb, where he remains about 6 stories below the main altar of the church. If I get the chance (which it is very difficult) to visit the excavations below St. Peter's, you can see the burial of San Pietro.

Mass was wonderful, said by I think the Bishop of Rome. Only the Papa can say mass at the main altar, but they set up chairs behind the main altar for mass every Sunday. It was a much bigger mass than I had expected, with a large procession of the bishops and priests and a beautiful choir (singing mostly in Latin). The mass was primarily in Latin, but the readings were done in English and Italian. Most of the mass is chanted, which was really interesting; I tried to follow along in our booklets, but its hard to keep up! Some people at the mass definitely did not belong though. You could tell the tourists from the people who were really there to celebrate mass. Fortunately, the guards are very strict about taking pictures during mass. Although the chatty ladies behind me continued talking about their trip itinerary most of mass. I guess you can't expect everyone to understand the sanctity of the celebration, especially in St. Peter's.

I decided not to take too many pictures that day, but rather take in the experience and really enjoy where I was in the moment. Sometimes, worrying about getting pictures of everything takes away from truly seeing and participating. I am only a few minutes away, so I plan to come back and visit often, hopefully when it is less crowded as well. Megan told us the best time to visit is either 7 am or 7 pm. One time in January, she walked to the Square late at night, and she was the only person in the entire Piazza...pretty cool. And there is still so much I have to see! When I walked in to the Basilica for Mass, we had to get right to our seats. But I did get a moment to look at the Pieta, the most beautiful sculpture I have ever seen. Megan said it might move you to tears, and it really does. Its almost impossible to describe, but I found its beauty to be in the union of both power and grace, fluidly combining in a seamless way to create such a masterpiece. I can't wait to go back, and slowly walk through the Basilica, to more fully see the beauty around me. Its a feast for the eyes!

I also plan on taking the trip up the Basilica to the top of the Dome, where you can look out over the Piazza and get the best view of Roma (apparently!!). From the top, you can fully grasp the intent of Bernini, in his design of the Piazza San Pietro, as the colonnades appear to be the outstretched arms of St. Peter to his citta. Also, I am told that I need to visit the Vatican museums at least 2 or 3 times, since there is so much to see inside. In addition, the only way to visit the Sistine Chapel is by going through the museums; there is no separate entrance for the public. So these are all on my lists of things to do in Rome...which is continually growing longer and longer! Good thing I'm here for awhile.

Well, after Mass, we came out to a crowd of thousands, gathered in the Piazza, waiting for the Papa's weekly Angelus, which he delivers from his apartment window at noon. He speaks from the top floor, one window in from the corner, and he is just a tiny speck to those of us on the ground. They do set up large screens for an up-close view, but it was so cool to just be there hearing him speak. His Angelus is his weekly blessing upon the people, but also a short speech about what is happening that week. On Sunday, he spoke in about 5 or 6 languages, to the applauds and cheers of the crowd. His English was a little muffled by the crowd, so I'm not sure what he said, but I know that I was blessed by the Pope!!!!

I'm not sure where I'll go to Mass next weekend, because I want to visit several churches throughout the city while I'm here. But I am excited to go back for Mass there. At the end of our semester, we do get to go to a Papal audience, where we will be much closer to the Papa, which I'm looking forward to. Its amazing to have these opportunities at my age though. While in Mass and outside at the Angelus, I was looking around at the older people who have waited their whole lives to come to this place....and I'm here at 21! I have to pinch myself sometimes, and remember how fortunate I am to have this experience.

Il Foro Romano, Palatino, Colosseo

I just got back from a long, busy day of sightseeing around Roma....in the rain!!! We started our day around 8:45 with cappuccini at Pascucci's, and then broke off into small groups to tour Il Foro Romano (the Forum) and il Palatino (Palatine Hill) with our professors from Art History and Archeology class. Professor De Sena, the anthropology teacher, was my tour guide for the day, and he was a wealth of knowledge at each of the sites. He specializes in Ancient Roman and Greek architecture and art, and it was like listening to a human history book as he told us the background story behind each temple, landscape, and artifact. The Forum is absolutely amazing, spanning a huge area with remains dating back thousands and thousands of years ago. It is so cool to be able to walk around and see these sites with such great history, that until now, I have only read about in text books. Because we started our tours early in the morning, (and most Romans aren't out and about until later in the morning) we had the Forum to ourselves for awhile. The view from the top of the Palatine Hill is spectacular, looking over all the valleys and hills of the city of Roma. Throughout the city, there are about 7 or 8 major hills spread across the city, with low-lying valleys where most of the central areas of Rome are located. From atop the Palatino, I was able to get a better understanding of the layout of the city, and take some great pictures of the view.

However, we were forced to run home when the sky turned black and it began to thunder and rain....out of nowhere! The weather tends to be very strange here. It was hot and sunny early this morning, and then quickly became windy, cold and rainy in a few short hours. We were lucky enough to see everything before the rain came, and we hurried back to the hotel for a delicious Tiziano lunch. We were served a gnocchi pomodoro, an antipasto of meats, cheeses and olives, and fresh salad from Mr. Molinari's garden (the owner). He actually has hired someone to go to his garden outside the city and pick fresh vegetables everyday and bring them to the hotel for lunch and dinner! Fabulous!!

Immediately after lunch, we went back out for our second tour of the day...il Colosseo!! Both the Forum and the Colosseum are only about a 5 to 10 minute walk from our hotel (depending on how many slow walking people are on the streets). Looking up at the Colosseum, I could barely believe I was finally there. We were able to get in for free and walk past the long lines of tourists waiting in the rain. The Colosseum was kinda eerie inside, especially when I started to think about what this amphitheater was used for thousands of years ago. Dr. De Sena went through the architecture and construction of the Colosseum, as well as explaining all the various functions it served. He was such good tour guide, that wherever we went, anyone who walked by and spoke English stopped to listen in to what he was saying. We were able to ask questions and have discussions about the places we visited, with Dr. De Sena as a great source of knowledge and insight. Meanwhile, everyone else is walking around with their audio tour guides, getting a basic overview of the Colosseum. I feel very fortunate to be in such a well organized, informational, exciting program.

One interesting fact and a little history lesson I learned from one of my friends, Emily, at the Colosseum was about the last gladiator fight to take place in the amphitheater. When paganism began to take a backseat to Christianity in the Empire, bans were put on gladiator fighting and executions in the Colosseum. However, by Theodoseios' (sp?) reign, fighting finally came to an end. However, the pivotal moment occurred when a monk from another country in the Europe learned of the fights and insisted on putting an end to it. He walked for days to Rome, and arrived at the Colosseum during a gladiator fight. He walked onto the floor of the amphitheater during the fight, and began to speak out about the savagery and evil of these "games". The audience's first reaction was to yell and boo, but slowly people started to listen to what he had to say. He spoke of human rights and equality, demanding the end of the fighting.....until a gladiator came up behind in and stabbed him to death. Now, although the story doesn't seem to end well, (for the monk) this fight was the last to ever take place in the Colosseum.

Ok, well that's everyone's history lesson for the day! I will post pictures from my day as soon as I can. For now, I'm off to a local sports bar, to see if we can watch the Notre Dame/Stanford game! Go Irish!!

First Week in Roma

First week of classes are over, and I feel like Roma is becoming my home away from home. I'm finding my way around the city and loving living the Italian lifestyle. For example, instead of a traditional bowl of cereal for breakfast, I walked to Campo dei Fiori, a large open air market full of fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, breads, chocolates, pastries, and even clothing, and I bought a loaf of bread and fresh fruits. I walked around town eating my delicious peach and warm bread, stopping on the benches near il Teatro Marcello to read and do homework. Days couldn't start any more perfectly than they do here in Roma. Italians seem to get late starts in the morning, probably because of their crazy nightlife, so the city has a peaceful quiet in the morning, before tourists and locals are out and about. Definitely my favorite time of the day.

Many of the girls and I got all dressed up and went to Scholars, a local bar, to have some drinks and go dancing. Scholars turned out to be a favorite of American college students and was no different from any bar in South Bend :( I met up with some of the Notre Dame students studying in Rome, and had a few too many glasses of wine!! I've learned that it is much more economical to buy local wines at the supermercato and enjoy it beforehand in our hotel, since drinks at the bars are too pricey for my starving student budget. From now on, we're definitely going to try to branch out and find bars frequented by the locals, for a more authentic idea of the Italian nightlife!

Classes have been very interesting, especially since they are so small and easy going, not anything like the intense academic feeling in the Notre Dame lecture halls. My favorite professor is my Theology teacher, a old priest originally from Malta, who, in our last class, told us the story of Jesus' life from beginning to end. Now obviously I've heard this story hundreds of times throughout my 21 years, but never has it been told so well as he told it. I found myself hanging on his every word, just because he is such a great story teller and has such great insight into the truth behind many of the common parables. The class is Christian Moral Theology, and he has outlined several topics for the course, including discussions on important issues in our lives, such as in vitro, death penalty, abortion, etc. Its great to experience professors outside of the Notre Dame network, especially since most are from Europe and have an interesting perspective to bring to the classroom.

Tonight, Sam, Caroline, Hank, Laurel and I went to a cafe in the piazza where the Pantheon sits, and had a delicious Italian meal. We saw the word SPECIAL...and immediately chose this restaurant. Its funny, as you walk around past trattorias, the hosts or hostesses try to convince you to come in and try their restaurant. "Ragazze, Pizza, Pasta, venate!!" They all want our business, but most are too expensive for our budget. Sam said that she always compares the price of gnocchi at the different restaurants to see which is cheapest. So anyway, one restaurant was advertising a drink, bruschetta, and either pizza or pasta for 12 euro! It was fabulous. The owner/chef was a woman from Napoli (therefore...an expert at pizza making) and she loved talking to us, even though she spoke NO Italian. I had spaghetti pomodoro, Coca Cola Light, and a piece of bruschetta....and by the end of the meal, I could barely move. I've been told your stomach will adjust to the large quantities of food, but my stomach is not there yet! Then we went to the most amazing gelateria, offering 140 flavors of gelato!!!! I recommend this place to anyone who ever visits Roma. Its right near the Pantheon and its overwhelming and quite a sight for the eyes and mouth!! Its hard to believe they can come up with that many flavors, but they come up with new ones everyday. As we were leaving, they put out pinenut flavor!! Let's just say some are better than others. I tried Grapefruit, Chocolate Strawberry, and Cappuccino....I wanted some variety. Our goal is to try all of them, if my stomach allows.

When we were ready to head home, it started pouring outside and out of nowhere, men came out selling umbrellas everywhere. We decided to just make a run for it and enjoy walking in the rain in Roma. Sam, Caroline and I have been searching online all night, planning our trips throughout Europe, trying to find the cheapest flights and hostels. I'm finding it a little overwhelming, with the high costs of fuel and the terrible dollar, but we are going to try to do/see as much as possible. A long weekend in Paris over Thanksgiving weekend is definitely on our list. We're also looking to travel to London, Dublin, Prague, maybe Amsterdam, Firenze, Pisa, Venezia, and Cinqueterre. The list is ambitious, but we'll do what we can.

Tomorrow, we have group tours of the Colosseo, Palatine Hill, and the Forum, starting at 9am and not finishing until late in the afternoon. This visit is part of our lectures and tours class, so we'll be studying and discussing many of the sites as we visit them. I have to get up early, so I'm off to bed. Look for more pictures tomorrow!! Ciao xoxo

Finally in Roma

Ciao Family and Friends!!

Io sono a Roma, and I have finally started my blog, which will help me stay in contact with everyone more easily.

Italy is amazing!! And Rome has been unbelievably these past few days. I have fallen in love with the city, the people, and of course the food!! I've been told the best way to see la citta bella is to get lost in it, walking around and exploring. So that's what I've done...gotten lost a lot!! But I do feel very safe here (although I'm always very cautious), and I think I'm really starting to understand the layout of the city.

My trip began a little over a week ago, flying to Roma on Tuesday/Wednesday. The flight was so much better than I expected, and it helped that I met a great girl on the plane who I chatted with most of the flight. Abby is an American, but she moved to Spain shortly after studying abroad there in college. Who knows, that could be me one day!! After I said my goodbyes to Kyle and my family before we took off, Abby introduced herself and comforted me as I was crying, telling me all about her experience when she went abroad. She lives in Madrid now, and teaches English to young Spanish students. It was great to get her perspective on life in Europe, especially since she lived a significant amount of her life in America. We hit it off immediately and she invited me to come stay with her in Madrid if I make it there this semester. Definitely a great start to the trip.

Once arriving in Roma, we took a 3 hour bus trip to Assisi, a town in the mountains of the region of Umbria (northeast of Rome), where we had a 4 day retreat/orientation/visit. Assisi is an incredibly religious, peaceful place, home of San Francesco and Santa Chiara. Built on a mountain, Assisi is a walled city, with tiny, hilly streets, small piazzas everywhere you go, cobblestone roads, and tiny homes and buildings with rooftop terraces crammed into a relatively small area. Although 2 days in Assisi would be sufficient to visit the beautiful sites and basilicas, we stayed from Wednesday afternoon to Sunday afternoon, giving us lots of free time to wander the town and get to know one another. My roommate in Assisi was great (we were paired alphabetically) and most of the girls I've met have been very nice. Although at times, I feel like I'm back at Notre Dame Academy (all-girls high school) with the catty-ness (sp?) and the drama. A little drama is necessary every once in awhile...but this is a little too much. Anyway, I'm trying to make the most out of meeting new people, but I miss my girls back at school and home so much!

In Assisi, we lived in a religious community, Citta della Casa Franchi, with rooms half the size of a small dorm room at Notre Dame. It was only for a few days, so I made do...but the shower over the toilet was a little much for me after 4 days. The view from our room was unbelievably though (the best part of Casa Franchi) with views of the small city below and the rolling hillsides of Umbria in the distance. After about 28 hours of travel and homesickness setting in, looking out the window, everything felt just right for the moment. The sunset was amazing each night from our tiny window; I could have never imagined anything so beautiful.

We were fed a 4 course meal twice a day by the lay people at the residence(dinner and supper....aka lunch and dinner)! Food has never tasted so fresh and flavorful (no offense, mom) as it does here. They feed you until there is no more room...but with all the walking up and down hills in Assisi, I felt like each meal was well-deserved. For breakfast, some girls, Hank (the one boy and other ND student in our group), and I would try different cafes (or bars as they call them) for our daily cappuccini e cornetto (croissant) in the morning sun with all the locals. Definitely what I call living the good life!! One thing I love about eating here is the sense of enjoyment and relaxation that I don't recall ever feeling at home. Eating has taken on multiple meanings for me throughout the years, but here in Italia, I feel so content, so at peace when eating a meal. Meals are not to be rushed and they are definitely not to be taken on the go. The art of eating, as I'll call it, is so crucial to their culture, and I love it! Its amazing how much you miss, in taste, conversation, and fulfillment, when you don't truly enjoy a meal. Obviously, we don't all have time for an 4-course, hour long meal everyday.....but somehow (at least in the small towns) the Italians have mastered this. Also, another thing that surprised me in Assisi (you don't see it as much in Roma), is fare una siesta (to take a rest). Around 1 or 2 everyday, i negozi (stores) close up shop for a few hours to rest and recuperate before opening in the evening again. Side note to Polly: you should think about this for DCNW!!! :) haha I don't know how they do it, but this way of life seems to work for them. It obviously frustrates the American tourists, but they have to relax and adjust.

The highlight of the trip to Assisi (as far as sightseeing) was the visits to la Basilica di Santa Chiara e la Basilica di San Francesco (St. Francis and St. Claire). Both are amazing examples of accomplished architecture, sculpture and painting, dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries; but the basilicas are also very powerful places of prayer and faith. Both Santa Chiara and San Francesco's remains are located in the crypts of their basilicas, and preserved artifacts (documents, clothing, hair) and religious artwork is present all throughout. People from all over the world come to Assisi on pilgrimages and religious trips just to walk the same streets as St. Francis and experience the power of the place. Definitely a place I would suggest anyone (whether religious or not) to visit someday. Only a short train or bus trip from Roma.

Anyway, I could go on and on about those short 4 days, about the people I met, the great wine I had, the amazing sites I saw. I hope to visit again someday....maybe as my families tour guide!! By Sunday afternoon, though, I, and most everyone in the group, was ready to get to Roma and get settled in our hotel, The Hotel Tiziano. The trip back took twice as long, because a Lazio game was being held in the city that night, and the traffic in Rome to begin with is always pretty terrible (probably similar to LA). Driving into the city in our Mercedes buses (fancy cars everywhere....Justin would love it) one of our professors was out of breath, trying to point out important sites as we approached our hotel; however, just about every other building is important in Roma's history, so it was overwhelming, but so exciting.

Our hotel, the beautiful 4-star Tiziano is located on Corso Vittorio Emanuelle, a major street in the city, and centrally positioned near any important place in Roma. The Pantheon is a 3 minute walk across the street and down a block. The Trevi Fountain is 5 minutes past the Pantheon. The Vatican is less than a 15 minute walk. The Spanish steps are just north of us. Il Campo (Campo dei Fiori) is one block south of us. Its out of this world!!! Every time I walk into our hotel, I can't believe how lucky I am to be where I am. I couldn't ask for a better location, a nicer staff, a more beautiful hotel. E' semplicemente favoloso!!

I am rooming with 2 girls from Villanova actually (the only other people outside of St. Mary's) who are doing internships at the Vatican!! and are taking a few classes as well. Villanova is the only university in the country to offer internships at the Vatican, so they are very fortunate. ND needs to get on board with that if they call themselves the leading Catholic University in the world. Sam and Caroline are great and we get along great. Hank has been my buddy from the very beginning, since we both felt a little bit like outsiders, not being smcchicks. But people seem to gravitate toward our little group of 4 and we've met some great people. Although, everyone seems to be mooching off our wine a little more frequently than I would like :) Caroline is actually friends with one of Chrissy's friends from home (small world....even in Rome). Our room is great...probably the biggest of the group, with our own bathroom and desks for each one of us. I got #2 room pick number so we definitely lucked out.

We went out for the most delicious pizza in Piazza Navona the first night here, and sat outside drinking wine, listening to a man playing music, people watching, soaking up la vita bella!! We are fortunate enough to get one delicious meal a day here at the hotel! Once again, they go all out with the courses and the variety. Mr. Molineari (sp?), the owner, uses vegetables and fruits grown in his own garden for our food, and everything is fresh the day of. They have guaranteed us multiple times that we will never eat canned, frozen, or preserved while we are here. We also get meal tickets to a bar next to our classroom (and across the street from our hotel) called Pascuccis. Its really tiny, but the people love the St. Mary's group and they serve the most delicious panini e frulatto di frutta (fruit smoothies). The weekends we are free to explore and find our own places to eat (and pay for it), but its nice to have a little of both. I definitely will not go hungry in Italia....quite the opposite.

Classes have been good, but I am trying to figure out how to travel, see Rome, meet new people, learn the language....oh and go to school! I am taking interesting classes though, which definitely is a plus. My first class on Monday at 8am, Philosophy, ended up being probably the best class I'll ever attend in my life. Its just Hank and I and our Professore Andrea. He was late to class, somewhat flustered, and decided we needed to go get cappuccini and get out of the classroom. We sat and drank our coffees while he explained the syllabus and went off on several tangents about Roma, Italian history, and his own life. Then, he took us for a walk around the city, pointing out different cafes we should visit, museums, sculptures on buildings, taking us inside beautiful churches. He grew up in the neighborhood we are living in, so he knows it well. He recently moved, saying that he no longer can afford to live here, as it has become the Beverly Hills of Roma. All around us, the apartments and rooftop terraces are occupied by some of the most wealthy Italians, foreign diplomats, or celebrities of some kind or another. But the area still holds its charm, as Romans from all over flock into the city to the mercati all'aperto and the famous sites.

At night, we try to go visit different sites throughout the city...mainly to walk off our incredibly large dinners. One night we visited the Pantheon, which isn't far at all. The other night we went out drinking in il Campo (a popular nightlife area for young people) and last night we got gelato at the Trevi Fountain and I threw a 2 cent (euro) piece in and made a wish....just like the movies!! Perfetto!!

I will try to keep everyone updated more regularly on my travels and adventures in Roma(so these won't be so long!! Sorry). I miss you all and think about everyone back home often. Thank you all for your support, friendship and love, and for being such special people in my life. I am excited to share my trip with you...and I hope to hear from you whenever possible. Take care. Love to all! Ciao Ciao!