Sunday, October 5, 2008

Il mio giorno con Papa Benny 16

Sunday mass has never been so amazing as it is here in Roma. Two days ago, we went to St. Peter's Basilica for the weekly 10:30 mass at the back altar, behind the main altar. I hadn't yet made the 10 minute trip from our hotel to the Vatican, so I was so excited to see the Basilica di San Pietro, and hopefully get a glimpse of the Papa from his window. Walking into the Square, I was overwhelmed and awestruck by the grandeur, size and beauty of both the Basilica and the colonnade lining the Square. We stood in the center of St. Peter's Square, and Megan gave us a brief tour of what was around us, pointing out the impressive architecture and design that went into this masterpiece. The final product we all see today is actually the work of the most famous, artists of the 16th and 17th centuries, including Michelangelo, Bramante, and Bernini. Any one who was anyone in art at the time would have worked on the Basilica and the Piazza. Finished in 1628, it is seen as the most sacred, celebrated church in all of Christianity. Since as early as 4 AD there has been some form of a church on this site, modified and rebuilt many times until the final construction that we see today. The location use to be called Circus of Nero, and was a open field used for congregating and town activities during the reign of Nero. The obelisk that stands in the center of the square today, was originally standing in Circus of Nero, where San Pietro was later executed in 64 AD, hung UPSIDE DOWN (per his request). He was buried by his followers below Circus of Nero, and the Basilica was built atop his tomb, where he remains about 6 stories below the main altar of the church. If I get the chance (which it is very difficult) to visit the excavations below St. Peter's, you can see the burial of San Pietro.

Mass was wonderful, said by I think the Bishop of Rome. Only the Papa can say mass at the main altar, but they set up chairs behind the main altar for mass every Sunday. It was a much bigger mass than I had expected, with a large procession of the bishops and priests and a beautiful choir (singing mostly in Latin). The mass was primarily in Latin, but the readings were done in English and Italian. Most of the mass is chanted, which was really interesting; I tried to follow along in our booklets, but its hard to keep up! Some people at the mass definitely did not belong though. You could tell the tourists from the people who were really there to celebrate mass. Fortunately, the guards are very strict about taking pictures during mass. Although the chatty ladies behind me continued talking about their trip itinerary most of mass. I guess you can't expect everyone to understand the sanctity of the celebration, especially in St. Peter's.

I decided not to take too many pictures that day, but rather take in the experience and really enjoy where I was in the moment. Sometimes, worrying about getting pictures of everything takes away from truly seeing and participating. I am only a few minutes away, so I plan to come back and visit often, hopefully when it is less crowded as well. Megan told us the best time to visit is either 7 am or 7 pm. One time in January, she walked to the Square late at night, and she was the only person in the entire Piazza...pretty cool. And there is still so much I have to see! When I walked in to the Basilica for Mass, we had to get right to our seats. But I did get a moment to look at the Pieta, the most beautiful sculpture I have ever seen. Megan said it might move you to tears, and it really does. Its almost impossible to describe, but I found its beauty to be in the union of both power and grace, fluidly combining in a seamless way to create such a masterpiece. I can't wait to go back, and slowly walk through the Basilica, to more fully see the beauty around me. Its a feast for the eyes!

I also plan on taking the trip up the Basilica to the top of the Dome, where you can look out over the Piazza and get the best view of Roma (apparently!!). From the top, you can fully grasp the intent of Bernini, in his design of the Piazza San Pietro, as the colonnades appear to be the outstretched arms of St. Peter to his citta. Also, I am told that I need to visit the Vatican museums at least 2 or 3 times, since there is so much to see inside. In addition, the only way to visit the Sistine Chapel is by going through the museums; there is no separate entrance for the public. So these are all on my lists of things to do in Rome...which is continually growing longer and longer! Good thing I'm here for awhile.

Well, after Mass, we came out to a crowd of thousands, gathered in the Piazza, waiting for the Papa's weekly Angelus, which he delivers from his apartment window at noon. He speaks from the top floor, one window in from the corner, and he is just a tiny speck to those of us on the ground. They do set up large screens for an up-close view, but it was so cool to just be there hearing him speak. His Angelus is his weekly blessing upon the people, but also a short speech about what is happening that week. On Sunday, he spoke in about 5 or 6 languages, to the applauds and cheers of the crowd. His English was a little muffled by the crowd, so I'm not sure what he said, but I know that I was blessed by the Pope!!!!

I'm not sure where I'll go to Mass next weekend, because I want to visit several churches throughout the city while I'm here. But I am excited to go back for Mass there. At the end of our semester, we do get to go to a Papal audience, where we will be much closer to the Papa, which I'm looking forward to. Its amazing to have these opportunities at my age though. While in Mass and outside at the Angelus, I was looking around at the older people who have waited their whole lives to come to this place....and I'm here at 21! I have to pinch myself sometimes, and remember how fortunate I am to have this experience.

1 comment:

Tae said...

ann-marie,

im happy to post on such wonderful reflections of your time in rome. thanks so much for sharing your experiences.

reading about your experience at Mass brings back memories for me as St. peter's is my favorite place for me to have Mass in. i once stood 1 foot away from Benedict as he walked down the aisle of the Altar of the Chair for mass-truly a blessing. also got to shake his hand too-didn't wash it for a while. i also love how you're getting to know the history of the Church and the fact that St. peter was crucified upside down was something i brought up while teaching the other day. the kids were mystified at the fact.

two things: 1) its good to go to the sistine chapel/vatican museums once tourism season really starts dying down and go with someone who knows the meaning and history of the art
2) if you need help arranging a scavi tour, i would be more than happy to contact some seminarians i know in rome

enjoy spending time walking around in st. peter's-you really can't take a bad picture or spend enough time in there. oh the colonnade represents the arms of the Church embracing humanity. its basically the church giving people a hug. just a little piece of trivia there.