Day Trip to Pisa and Lucca in Tuscany

Ciao Famiglia e Amici!!

Ok so I am the worst at staying updated on my blog entries, but hopefully this week I can get all caught up!

So, several weeks ago, November 8th to be exact, Caroline, my friend Allie and I took a day trip to Pisa and Lucca, Italian towns in Toscana. We wanted to do a small trip somewhere in Italy, and these two towns are a perfect distance from us in Rome. However, as fun and easy as a day trip sounds, we found ourselves with a few too many snafus, running for trains, getting stuck in the rain, and losing train tickets!! And unfortunately, that last one is my fault :(

Early, early Saturday morning, we took a train out of Termini (Rome's station) to Pisa, a four hour trip, which passed fairly quickly since we slept most of the way. As we sat in the cafe in Termini station having our usual cappuccino and cornetto, we were completely oblivious to the fact our platform was about a 8 minute walk/run from the main platforms. And so began the first of many sprints to trains, literally pulling away seconds after we boarded. It was a day of close-calls, but I guess there is some adventure in that!! We were surprised when the conductor never came by to collect our tickets, joking that we wasted our 40 euro on an unnecessary ticket. From the Pisa station, we had to run to our connecting train to Lucca, which, again, we barely made it to!

Once in Lucca, we couldn't have been happier for a lazy afternoon exploring the walled, Tuscan city. Lucca is like something out of a movie or book, the epitome of relaxed Italian culture, with a focus on food, wine, and rest! It is famous throughout the country for its perfectly maintained Renaissance city walls; today the city has expanded beyond the walls, but the center of the city (and the less modernized area) still remains within the walls. As the walls lost their military importance, they became a sort of pedestrian promenade for the town's inhabitants and travelers alike. Today, if you visit the city, you'll find groups of old Italian mammas strolling around the perimeter, their husbands sitting on park benches playing game after game of chess, a young child learning to ride her bike along side her papa, packs of runners lapping the gawking tourists slowly walking around, and finally, countless Luccans riding their bikes all around the city, carrying market-goods and flowers in their baskets. It truly is one of the most quintessential, picturesque scenes I've encountered in Italia, a refreshing change from the busy city life of Roma.


Meganne, our RA back in Rome, recommended the city for a casual day trip, and it was exactly what I needed - an escape from the chaos of home and a chance to clear my head and indulge in a day for myself. We started off our journey with a passeggiata around the city walls, taking in the beauty of fall that we seldom see in the big city. We stumbled upon a large outdoor market, selling everything from food, wine, underwear!, clothes, jewelry, shoes, books, etc. That's pretty much how most Italian markets are composed....an eclectic mix of anything and everything you could possibly want, all at ridiculously cheap prices . But with the good, you also deal with the pushy Italian ladies trying to get their apples before you, the pestering vendors, trying to sell the most pointless items, and you have to wander....at what cost to someone else are these prices so low. Anyway, I guess that is life, taking the good with the bad.

From the market, we began our walk down the main streets of the city, stopping in small shops and specialty food stores for tasters and little souveniers. Lucca is known throughout Italia and the world for its incredible production of some of the best olive oil in the world. So of course, I couldn't miss out on a chance to try and buy some of the best in the world!!! Its strange to think that just a few short years ago, I wouldn't go near the stuff. I felt like I had really come so far, as I sought out the delicious ingredient all day! We found a wonderful, unassuming shop, selling meats, cheeses, oils, vinegars, drinks, etc. and decided to indulge. The store owners, a husband and wife, were so welcoming, telling us about the notorious Italian product and inquiring about who we were and what brought us to Lucca. As I left the store, he said "Ciao, Ci Vediamo LA-Wisconsin lady!" I love Italia!

Making our way toward the center of the city, we visited the city's Duomo, San Martino Basilica, the clock tower, and then stopped for a long lunch beside the Duomo. Meganne had told us about her 3 hour lunch in Lucca with her friend - and we knew that was a must to complete our casual day out and about in Tuscany. We ate at a small cafe, and given it was a cool fall day, we enjoyed warm zuppa di fagioli e verdure, delicious crusty bread, and of course a crisp, cool glass of white wine! Perfetto!! Sitting outside, we watched townspeople ride by on their bikes or walk past with their puppies. It was the perfect way to spend a beautiful afternoon in Tuscany.

UNTIL.....I reached into my purse to check the time of our train home, and discovered the tickets were no where to be found!!! The travel agent had put all three tickets on one ticket, and I was supposed to be the responsible one! And I failed. We retraced our steps, but I assume that they fell out in the hustle after our first train in Pisa. My relaxed state soon gave way to a very stressed out one, worrying how we would get home without having to fork out more money I did not have. I tried to forget about it, enjoying my favorite nocciola gelato (hazelnut....its the absolute best!) and shopping for more chocolates and treats. But I was definitely worried.

Before we knew it, we had to run back to the Lucca train station to catch our train to Pisa, only a 30 minute trip. Again, we almost missed it! The train took a little longer than we expected, leaving us with only a half hour to spend in Pisa - just enough to take some funny pictures with the Leaning Tower and then leave. From what we've heard from most people, there isn't much to do in Pisa besides the Tower; its more of a passing-through town. But it was worth it to get to see the Leaning Tower....which is really amazing! We got there right at sunset, in time for some beautiful pictures and some inappropriate ones :) Its really quite a funny site, because you look around and everyone is trying to get the perfect picture of themselves holding up the tower! I have to admit, I got a few of my own too!

With only a few minutes to spare when we got to our train, we began our trip home to Roma...illegally!! Ahh I was hoping the conductor would 1) not check our tickets again, or 2) be kind enough to let us go easy. We sat with a young student from Portugal studying in the Erasmus program (Europe's foreign study program), who overheard us talking about our little problem. He understood and spoke Italian much more fluently than us, so when the conductor finally did come by, I batted my eyelashes and smiled a huge American smile and our new friend did all the talking! I felt pretty pathetic, but what do you know...It worked! He just shook his head at us and walked on by. Oh well, at least we really did buy a ticket....we just had no proof. The whole time I kept thinking about what my friend Kelly reminded me of before leaving - Always make copies of your tickets! Oops. I guess you have to make mistakes in order to really learn, or at least I do.

But we made it home safe, with a wonderful day of exploration and adventure behind us. I slept the best I have all semester that night!

Noi abbiamo un nuovo presidente....FORZA OBAMA

I have never been prouder to be an American as I was on election day and more so the day after! Since arriving in Rome, I have been trying my hardest to fit in, to look and act and speak like an Italian. But November 4th and 5th, I wanted everyone to know I was an American. And still, I am so proud of my country and the change that will hopefully come to our country and world.

I was able to vote absentee, which was very important to me. This was my first election that I was eligible to vote, and I feel it is our duty to do so. I was only able to watch coverage on my computer, with my terrible internet connection, but I tried to keep up with it throughout the day. It didn't help that I had a huge Art History exam the next day. The time difference also made it next to impossible to stay up and watch all of the coverage. But I'll never forget the feeling of waking up to my roommates telling me "WE did it! HE did it!" We all gathered around my tiny bed and watched his acceptance speech from Chicago, and looked at the map of the states, colored red and blue.

Anyway, I just feel so fortunate, so blessed to have been born in America and have the privilege to vote and participate in our government and more importantly our future. Whatever your beliefs or opinions, it seems to be a consensus around the world that this is a monumental, historical day in our history, and I can't believe I was a part of it. I do wish I could have been in the states for the election, to feel the excitement and intensity of the moment. It is an interesting perspective for my brother Justin and I to be abroad at this time, and to watch the world's interest and reaction to our country's election. My hope now is that these promises for change will be carried out in political, economic, social, domestic and foreign policy in our country. Watching the coverage, I couldn't help but think about Tim Russert, and how much he would have loved this. He was such a role model for me, and hearing him speak about it in person last April, you knew that this would be one of the highlights of his career. I loved Tom Brokaw's reflection when he said that the election of Barack Obama and the subsequent effects of his presidency are sweeping and the magnitude still not comprehensible to us. Obama's campaign and election has instilled in all Americans the desire for "a re-enlistment of citizenship," that anyone can become president (even Justin!!) if they work hard enough, that nothing is impossible. As a young adult, there is nothing more exciting than that prospect!!

Il Viaggio a Sud d'Italia

Allora, its been far too long since I've written an entry, so here we go! So much has happened in the last week or two --- lots of adventures in Italia. As a sort of fall break/class field trip, the St. Mary's program has a trip to Southern Italy every fall semester. Mostly, the focus is on the ancient ruins of the area, but we also got in some great sightseeing as well.

The trip began Tuesday the 28th at 6am in the morning...or at least that's when we had to be on the bus. The program is anal about promptness, which often doesn't bode well with my constant tardiness! (Thanks mom and dad!!) But I made it to our Mercedes coach bus, half-asleep but present. Our first stop of the trip was the amazingly rich and incredibly Pompeii, the ruined and still partially buried Roman city, dating back to the 7th-6th century BC. As some may know, Pompeii was completely destroyed and covered in AD 79, when Mount Vesuvius erupted and buried Pompeii under many meters of ash. However, it is to our great advantage today that Vesuvius erupted, because the burial of the city preserved much of the ancient city, until its rediscovery in the the 18th century. Today, when you visit Pompeii, you can still see original frescoes, architecture, mosaics, and most amazingly.....plaster casts of human and animal figures. Giuseppe Fiorelli, an archaeologist in charge of the excavations in the mid-1800's, discovered voids in the ash layer that contained remains of decomposed bodies. He came up with the idea to inject plaster into the areas to perfectly recreate the forms of the volcano's victims. The plaster casts are scattered throughout the premise, and can also be found in the Archaeological Museum in Naples; its somewhat haunting to see the human forms in twisted, helpless positions, capturing the moment of their almost instantaneous death.

In art history and archeology class in Rome, much of our study thus far has been focused on the ancient culture of Rome, including the Etruscans and the Pompeians. Many of us were assigned oral, on-site presentations at many of these locations. My presentation was on the House of the Faun (Casa del Fauno), one of the largest private complexes in the city, rich and glorious in its day. It once housed the famous Alexander the Great Mosaic, as well as the bronze Dancing Faun, which the house is named after. I had to take my group on a tour of the house, which stretched more than 3000 square meters. An interesting fact, the word casa is used only for homes within the city. Villa is used only for the homes outside the city. Many rich families would have both a casa and villa, the equivalent of a vacation home and permanent residence. This can be seen all over Rome today. The area I live in (Cuore della citta a Roma) is like the Beverly Hills or Brentwood of Rome, so many of the residents live in their city flat for the week and escape to their villa for the weekend. Just an example of how people really haven't changed much since antiquity!!

We spent about 8 hours at Pompeii, walking the whole complex, with occasional student presentations, but mostly just listening to our professor speak about the complex and the history of it. Professor De Sena, the archeology professor, was my guide; this trip was his 3rd time to Pompeii in 3 weeks! Its safe to say he is an expert on the topic.

When it was time to leave Pompeii, I couldn't have been happier to see our Mercedes autobus!! We all fell asleep on the ride to Napoli, only to awake to one of the most dirty cities I've ever seen!! Before getting off the bus, our professors warned us numerous times to get off and get our bags as quickly as possible, because there will be gypsies and pickpockets just waiting for us!! Oh great...I can't wait!! We stayed at Hotel Prati, located right near the Stazione. Now in most cities in Europe, the area around the train station is never the nicest, but this was about as far from our "cuore della Roma" at Hotel Tiziano as possible. We were told not to leave the hotel alone, for good reason. Looking for dinner that night in the rain, we literally ran to "Ciao Pizza" for a quick slice of the famous Neapolitan pizza, and then ran home, amongst the countless homeless, staring, eerie groups of young men, and wandering gypsies. I would like to say that I am somewhat cultured and familiar with city life, especially after living in LA and now Roma. But I was not prepared for Napoli!! As the third most populated city in Italy, behind Rome and Milan, with its rich culture, history, and gastronomy, I expected Napoli to be much different. However, the idealized image of Naples is one of the past. Today, Naples suffers with many problems, including the extremely prevalent Camorra, a mafia group originating in the city and the region of Calabria. The camorra has infiltrated much of Neapolitan life, affecting the city and the people in numerous ways. The trash is another huge problem for Napoli; as we drove out of the city on day 2, I looked out the window to see underpasses filled at least 10 feet high with mounds of trash, with a young family helplessly fishing through the piles. So very sad to see the realities of life for many people.

Day 2 of the southern Italy trip was amazing, even though we were on the bus for over 6 hours! We did the famous drive down the Amalfi Coast of Southern Italy, which takes about 3 hours in the bus. Most bus drivers won't even do it, because the roads are incredibly small and winding, but we were lucky enough to be able to experience the beauty of the drive. I have never in my life seen anything so beautiful; God truly kissed this area with the utmost splendor and striking magnificence. California looks so pathetic in comparison to the beautifully blue and green and white Mediterranean sea, complimented by the rocky cliff-sides spotted with white and yellow villas and small towns. Its a place most people only dream about....and I experienced it first hand! There is nothing like driving along the edge of the cliffs, hundreds of feet high, to look out at endless blue, the sea meeting the sky at the horizon almost seamlessly, creating an eternal fusion of beauty and life. We were able to have a few hours in the small sea town of Amalfi, to get lunch, visit the Duomo, and shop! Amalfi is one of the original and primary towns producing Limoncello!! For those unfamiliar with the potent liquid, its a lemon flavored liquor, produced from the rind of the lemons, which grow fruitfully on all the trees in the area. Che bello!! To be quite honest, I hate the stuff! Its way to strong for my tastes, but I'm told that its an acquired taste, like grappa and sambucca. But I don't think I'm here long enough to acquire the taste....nor do I want to. Il vino is all I need! I did bring some back as souvenirs, just for fun. We only had an hour and half or so....far too short a time for such a beautiful place. I could have stayed there for weeks, taking in the scene, eating gelato and lounging at the Mediterranean. If only....

We continued our way down the coast, heading for our next site of ancient ruins...Paestum. In Paestum are the most well-preserved Greek temples, created by the Etrucans in the Greek style....think Parthenon!! We toured the museum at the site, housing many of the artifacts from this complex, of which only about 10% has been excavated. Its an archaeologist's heaven...with so much to be discovered. Both here and in Pompeii, many archaeological digs have been stopped, reserving the remaining areas for later generations to investigate with their greater technological advances. It was amazing to see these temples up close....so well-preserved. Since I probably won't make it to Athens, this was a nice alternative for now.

Day 3 ---- Finally to the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I can't tell you how many slides I have seen of artifacts, statues, paintings, etc housed in this famous museum. Breaking up into 3 groups, we each rotated through the 3 professors, lecturing on their specialty (painting, sculpture, and all the rest!!). The morning was jam-packed with hundreds of things to see, including the famous Doryphorus (Spear-bearer), which was on my Art History exam the following week!! Visiting these museums really brings the art history books to life, making all my studying of history and art the past 10 years or so well worth it.

After visiting the museum, we were able to explore this area of Naples and get lunch....more Neapolitan pizza! Side note on the famous pizza...they are known for the use of buffalo mozzarella (produced by the water buffalo in the area), and the amazing red sauces used. The pizza is usually swimming in the perfectly seasoned pomodori sauce with about 4 or 5 small balls of mozzarella quickly melting into the sauce. Molto delizioso!! From downtown Napoli, we drove to Cumae, the first, ancient Greek settlement on the mainland of Italy, most notably known for being the seat of the Cumaean Sibyl. Its greatest significance is in Roman mythology, containing the route that Aeneas used to descend to the Underworld. Because of the references in mythology, the mythology class in the program presented on Virgil's Aeneid , as we all stood in the rain in the Cave of the Sibyl. It was slightly eerie, but a very cool experience, all of us bundled up together, listening to stories of Roman mythology.

That night, we found a restaurant close to our hotel, serving delicious southern Italian fare for fairly cheap....actually so cheap, my meal wasn't even included on the bill. I decided to help pay for the service charge instead! I got pasta all'arrabbiata, my new favorite dish here...its usually with linguine or my favorite, penne, and its super spicy!! I've had it at home, but honestly, the flavors are beyond comparison. The dish, with all its flavor and spice, embodies Italian cooking....richness of flavor, freshness, perfection of the art. One of the most upsetting things about Napoli was the lack of gelaterie! Usually after dinner, it is customary (at least in my life here) to get a few scoops of gelato, to finish off the celebration of food that I call a meal. Napoli = no gelato! I was deprived of the smooth delicacy most of the week, and I realized how painful unsatisfactory "fro-yo" will be when I return to school.

Day4 ---- Happy Halloween!! The last of our museums/on-site tours....which I admittedly was thrilled about. The density with which we saw ruin after ruin became all too monotonous for my taste. But we definitely ended on a high note, with our visit to Museo e Palazzo di Capodimonte, the former palazzo of the kings of Sicilia. It has been proclaimed as the most beautiful museum in all of Italy, and possibly of all of Europe. You can feel the grandeur of the place the minute you arrive, with overwhelming architecture and rich color on the exterior. The interior has fabric covered walls in rich reds and blues, with original wall paintings, gold decorations, and 18th century antique furniture. The framework of the palazzo/museo is complimented by the richness of paintings and sculpture which line the walls and halls of the former residence. Major works of Raphael, Caravaggio, El Greco, Martini, and Titian (for whom our Hotel Tiziano is named after...his former residence) are all contained in the Capodimonte. We got dressed up to visit this museum, as it is definitely a significant place.

The rest of the day was ours to explore....the port of Naples and the fancier areas of the city. It was like I was in a whole new city, with Prada, Gucci, and Louis flanking the streets, with fancy cafes and beautiful buildings containing the flats of the rich and famous everywhere we looked. We stopped in for lunch at the first place we saw, only to be completely ignored and pushed off to the side by the waiter, in favor of the wealthy Italian ladies at the table next to us. Well, we immediately got up and left...finding a cafe more our style, with fun waiters and (relatively) cheaper food. I didn't dare venture into any of the designer stores...knowing even the grandest of budgets would not allow for purchases there. We window shopped, practiced our Italian on the locals, and watched little bambini run around in their Halloween costumes asking for candy. It made me miss home though, thinking of all the Halloweens mom would make me wear turtlenecks because it was too cold (aka 60 degrees), we would grab the largest pillowcase we could find, and head out with Dad and Mario for the bluff to get the huge candy bars and then to the Mini Mansion! Time really does fly by!

5th and Final Day --- CAPRI This was the day most everyone was looking forward to the whole trip. The weather had been bad the past few days, so we weren't sure the boats would make it over, but when we arrived at 7, the trip was a go! Capri is the small island off the coast of Napoli....about a 45 minute boat ride across. Doesn't sound too bad, right? WRONG! I've never been sea sick until this death cruise across the port to the island. It started out funny, rocking up and down, but turned bad quickly. I should have known when they passed out trash bags to everyone and wouldn't let passengers sit in the front half of the boat. The sea was so rough, the hydrofoil was flying up in the air and crashing down into the waves every few seconds. I tried my best to stay calm, but nothing worked. Half the boat got sick! When I got off, I was about as white as a ghost, and I kept telling the girls that I refused to get back on....I was staying in Capri! At this point, the day had nowhere to go but up!!

When you arrive in Capri, you have to take a shuttle up to the main part of the island. The view was spectacular, not a cloud in the sky...and if possible, even more beautiful than the Amalfi Coast. The town is so cute, with small cafes and gelaterie, and tons of touristy shops. But beyond all that is the pure beauty of the place, the lush vegetation, the blue Mediterranean as a backyard, the rocky cliffs that make up the island, and the small villas and shops which blend into the landscape of the island perfectly. The island is made up of two towns...Capri and Anacapri. I still don't know the difference, although I think Anacapri is more touristy and Capri is more locals. Just a short bus ride apart, we went to Anacapri first, for an amazing chair lift to the top of the island for the most spectacular views one could ever imagine. The ride up was a little scary, especially since I was so excited that I forgot to put down my safety bar until the very end!! But you are never very far from the ground. The chair lift goes right over the villas of the locals, with their small grape vineyards, and from the top, you have a bird's eye view of the island and the Mediterranean, stretching for miles. The soft clouds came over gradually when we got to the top of the island, and their reflection in the sea was beautiful. As you stand looking over the edge of the cliff, you feel the eternity of life, the endlessness of the world, and you feel like you're at the very top of it all!

We did a little shopping after the ride, but I refrained from buying the handmade leather sandals that the island is known for...molto caro!! One of my favorite things to get anywhere I go is postcards! There cheap (the stamps are more expensive) and they are great memories of where I've been. I like to send one to myself from everywhere I go too, another thing for my scrapbook! Most of my friends make fun of me when they see me making out a postcard to myself, but I'll be a great souvenir.

I decided to make gelato my lunch for the day, along with far too many cappuccini!! I was a little shaky by the end of the day, with all that sugar and caffeine! But I loved every minute of being able to just relax and take in the scenery and the Capri lifestyle. There is no better place to learn to live in the moment than in small Italian towns. The people understand that work is secondary to enjoying life to the fullest...hence the 3 or 4 hour "siestas" everyday during and after lunch. Tourists get so frustrated, but they must adapt and understand, not complain. You learn the importance of slowing down and savoring the moments, because they're gone before you know it.
Before boarding the death boat home, Caroline and I collected sea glass and dipped our feet in the water, trying to get our minds off the impending boat ride. When I finally forced myself onto the boat, we got comfortable seats near the back, in case we needed to get to the outside of the boat quickly!!! As we were about to leave, a team of soccer players stormed the boat, of course interested in our group of 50 girls....and vice versa!! They were only about 16 or 17, playing in the equivalent of a division 2 team in Napoli. Some decided to sit across from us on the boat, and talked the whole way back...a nice distraction to keep me from puking...although I did warn them I might get sick again! It was fun to practice Italian with them, and watch them struggle with their English....that must be what I sound like!

When I made it to land and boarded our bus home, my relief turned to exhaustion, and I slept the whole way home! Yes, home, home in ROME! I've never been so happy to see my beautiful city, to feel the comforts of familiar settings, familiar people, GELATO, the Tiziano, my room! I never thought that Rome could become a home, but it really has. I love it more and more each day. It ceases to amaze, excite, engage, encourage, and thrill me! Its my home away from home.

Off to Southern Italy

I'm leaving in just a few short hours for Southern Italy....Napoli, Pompeii, Paestum, Amalfi Coast, and Capri!! It is a class trip, with tours, lectures, and the occasional free time. Unfortunately, the bad weather has spread from the states to Italy, and it is supposed to rain all week long. Usually the forecasters are wrong over here, so hopefully that trend will continue. I will write all about my journey when I return home to Roma. Thanks again to everyone keeping up with my long, detailed stories on here. Stay warm in the snow!! Love to all. Ciao Ciao

Firenze e Siena

Ciao...I'm back from a short, yet wonderful weekend away in Florence and Siena. We were only in Florence for exactly 24 hours, but with that small taste of the grandeur and beauty of art and culture in this Renaissance town, I am already anxious to go back.

My first train ride in Italia was quite the experience. We had the train to ourselves for the first half of the trip, so we unknowingly chose the first class seats, in the rooms with sliding doors. It was perfect, we could stretch out and relax in a little room by ourself, with 3 seats facing 3 seats. Well, this backfired when the train got busier and busier as we inched through Toscana. First came the creepy man who sat down across from Caroline with his fanny pack...more about him later. Then, I was abruptly awaken by an old Italian lady, who smelled of cheap perfume and beans, who wanted me to schooch over so she had more room. All my hopes at sleep were completely dashed when another large Italian mamma sat across from me, staring at me the rest of the way to Firenze. Ok, so back to the creepy man, this is a little gross, but I have to share it because it was part of my first European train experience. As I was squished in the middle seat, I looked around and noticed that this man (not necessarily an Italian, but definitely European) was rubbing his belly - gross to begin with. Upon a second glance, it was not his belly, but a little south of there!!!!! I was absolutely mortified and disgusted...so I tried to turn away and look out the window, but every time we went through a tunnel, I could see him through the reflection! I decided to just close my eyes, imagine not being on this terrible train and just hope to get to Firenze as soon as possible. Hank and Caroline were oblivious somehow, so it wasn't until after I got off the train that I could vent to someone. AHHH I really don't know what people are thinking sometimes. So let's just say it wasn't the most elegant way to enter Florence, but the trip had nowhere to go but up from there.

Some other St. Mary's girls were on our train and were staying at the same hostel, so we all navigated our way out of the station and through the streets to Plus Florence, a new hostel and one of many in Italy and Europe. It was surprisingly clean and offered all sorts of activities and amenities, especially for people staying throughout the week. I felt like I was at a dorm...with nightly themed parties (Wednesday Toga Party, Spaghetti Saturday, etc.), internet cafe downstairs, pool tables, daily outings in the city and throughout Toscana, even a spa (hostel-style, mind you). We obviously didn't have time to spend in the hostel, with only 24 hours to explore this amazing city, but it was nice not to have a horror of a terrible hostel, especially my first experience in one. I forgot to take a picture of it, but we were able to get a 3-person private room with a bathroom, for only 15 euro a night! It was clean (most important thing), comfortable (relatively), and safe.

After dropping off our backpacks, we set out for the David! The Accademia is the museum where the David is housed, but we were told we would need a reservation in order to get in. We decided to wing it, and just stand in line. It only took about a half hour, before we paid the steep 10 euro admission fee. One downside to Florence...you pay to go in just about anywhere....churches, museums, towers, etc. But I definitely thought it was worth it, to see such an amazing piece of sculpture and beauty. The first room of the Accademia (a very small museum) is filled with Renaissance paintings and Giambologna's beautiful Rape of Sabine Women (another copy is also outside in the Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence...I saw it as well). However, the excitement of everyone in the museum to see the David is clearly apparent. Everyone, including me, seemed to browse past the paintings, feeling the necessity to pay them respect; meanwhile, the mind is consumed by the anticipation of the grandeur that awaits in the next room. When you walk into the next room, Michelangelo's David looms in the vaulted room, standing 17 glorious marble feet tall. His sheer size, as well as Michelangelo's incredible genius are unimaginable until you see him up close, from all angles. As one girl in the museum said, you wonder how huge Goliath must have been :) All around him stood beastly women guards shouting "no foto!!". Well I believe that Michelangelo would have wanted his audience to come home with a visual memory of his masterpiece...which is why I secretly took 2 pictures!! I couldn't help myself!

After the Galleria dell'Accademia, we wandered (getting lost many times) to the Duomo, Piazza San Giovanni, and Giotto's Bell Tower. We went in the Duomo, which is mostly void of artifacts because they are housed in museums now, but it was still beautiful. The outside is overwhelming, as there are too many focal points, too much to look at, a feast for the eyes!! We opted not to climb the tower and the dome, which I now regret. But maybe next time. Brunelleschi's dome is unbelievable, and the Duomo is one of the world's largest churches. Michelangelo's dome over San Pietro was modeled after Brunelleschi's. The whole masterpiece is a wonderful example of the mastery and accomplishment of the Florentine Gothic period. It is the jewel of la citta.

From there, we stumbled upon an open-air market (il mio favorito!!) with stands devoted solely to apples, wine, cheese, meats, other fresh fruits, clothes, etc. It was late in the day, and the Florentine shop owners looked weary and overheated, yet they still offered samples and engaged in broken Italian with us. The apples were unbelievable, definitely as good as or better than the Wisconsin varieties back home. Something about their sweetness and texture - not tart, not sweet...perfectly juicy and delicious. A table with pasta sauces was giving out samples, which were wonderful, homemade and jarred by the women sitting in front of me. The wines were abounding, which was to be expected being in the Toscana region. An old woman gave us sample cups and continued to refill them until we purchased a bottle. Luckily, Hank and Caroline are fans of vino rosso (red wine), my favorite! We got a local variety for only 3 euro (1 euro each!!), and enjoyed it later that night. Santa Croce stood at the end of this piazza, and we ventured over to the famous church after our purchases at the market.

Resting at Piazza della Signoria for an afternoon siesta, we people-watched among famous sculptures and fountains in one of Italy's most beautiful squares. Michelangelo's David once stood in this square, but was moved inside to prevent damage. An inferior copy stands in the square today, but is under renovation currently. In the Loggia della Signoria, we sat on the steps surrounded by a gallery of sculpture, protected only by an overhang.

Its an amazing feeling to be sitting among such famous pieces of art and architecture, to walk where the greatest artists, politicians, royalty, writers, scientists once strolled, even to visit a place where millions of people throughout the world have been, and where millions more will someday come. In the same moment, you feel important and grateful, but also so insignificant and small in the scope of the world - present, past and future. Its a feeling unknown, at least to me, in the States; but it is an altogether necessary feeling, putting your life in perspective. As Americans (especially young Americans), you feel as though the world revolves around you and your every move, and there is often little sense of what came before this very day, before your lifetime. But here in Florence and Roma, and throughout Europe, if you open your eyes and truly see, you understand and appreciate history and your existence in it. Rather than becoming overwhelmed and disheartened by the reality of your small place in the world, I have found it encouraging. Yes, so many greats have come before me, but so many are still to come....and I could be one of them, in large and small ways.

Ok sorry to be philosophical...anyway, back to Florence. The nighttime in Firenze was definitely my favorite. The city seems to come alive. All the filth, all the tourists, all the vendors, all the traffic seem to disappear with the sunset over the Arno; the sparkle of street lights, the musicians playing on street corners, the small cafes opening for dinner, the lovers sitting on the Ponte Vecchio, the Italians taking their passeggiatas....amongst the commotion, there is a serenity about it. We ate dinner at Trattoria Buzziono, a small restaurant hidden on a small street we just happened to pass by. Not only was it delicious, but the atmosphere made it a perfect end to the day, red-checkered table cloths, an old man taking our orders (speaking only Italian) while his wife cooks our food and clears our tables in the back, and a younger man (maybe their son) seats people and socializes. Many locals came in for dinner while we were there, kissing the old man on the cheeks and sitting in their "usual" spot. After a long day of tourism and exploration, I felt so at ease here...I felt at home.

Taking our wine from the market to the Ponte Vecchio after dinner, we found a great spot among the couples, young and old, on the center of the bridge. The Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) is one of the only original bridges which survived the Nazi invasions and bombings during WWII. During the day, it is flanked with shops and vendors, selling everything from the finest leather and jewelry, to cheap Florentine souvenirs. However, at night, everything is closed, and the bridge is filled with some tourists, but also locals, enjoying the romance and beauty of the view of the Arno and the city from the bridge. A middle-aged man sat down and set up his guitar and played the most beautiful music throughout the night, including Andrea Bocelli (my favorite). However, being there amongst the beauty of the city, the serene river, the music, the vino, you can't help but want to be with the one you love. I can't wait to come back here with you some day sweetheart. But until then, my friends made for great company, and put up with my singing! I couldn't help but sing along with Andrea Bocelli!!

Getting up the next morning for mass was difficult, but we did it! We went to Santa Maria Novella, located near the train station, for 8:30 mass. Its a beautiful church, with black and white zebra stripes on the outside, and ornate frescos and statues inside. I was surprised by how few people were in mass, but I guess that Italians aren't really the best mass-goers. It was all said in Italian, and I found myself so tired, trying to translate everything in my head. But, its always a cool experience to go to mass when you travel, especially in Italy (as mamma always said!)

Then, we were off to Siena, a short train ride along the Chianti Road (the region producing the delicious wine). It was beautiful, looking out the window to rolling hills of grape vineyards and villas scattered throughout. The colors are like nothing you've seen...its actually fall here, despite the warm weather. But autumn here is much different. The colors are vibrant, but there is still so much green, with spotted purples from the vineyards. Some areas reminded me of the Midwest, but electrified with color, lit on fire by the warm sun. I definitely want to travel back to Italia one day, and devote my entire visit to the rolling hills of Toscana. Renting a villa and wandering the countryside would be perfect. Better yet, moving there permanently would be perfect!! Don't worry mom and dad, I know nothing about running a winery, but the idea sounds wonderful.

Arriving in Siena, we had to take another bus to get to the heart of the city (uphill). We got off the bus too early though, so we found the rest of our way up on foot. It worked out nicely though, seeing some of the neighborhoods, the soccer stadium for A.C. Siena and then visiting Basilica di San Domenico. The soccer stadium was pretty pathetic, about the size of a high school football stadium/track. But we were able to walk right in and stand in the stadium! Despite my disappointment at its size and glory, it was exciting to be able to see it up close. There was barbed wire in front of the seats, to prevent the psycho fans from storming the field. If you didn't know, futbol is a pretty big thing here, and it can get very violent and competitive, very quickly. I'm trying to see a A.S. Roma game, but tickets are expensive, unless you buy them outside the stadium....but there is no guarantee you'll get a real ticket. It would be a great experience, but we would definitely need to bring Hank for protection. Roma fans are some of the worst/most notorious.

Basilica di San Domenico is a beautiful 13th Century church, with a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine of Siena. Inside, Santa Caterina's head and thumb are kept in glass cases on display for visitors. Her head is covered in a wax recreation of what she would have looked like, but it is still slightly creepy. There are frescoes, stained glass, paintings, and sculptures, many of which depict the life of Santa Caterina. We also visited the Casa di Santa Caterina, where she lived most of her life, before dying in Roma in her thirties. It is a simple home, however, decorative elements have been added throughout the years, including paintings and sculpture. In the square outside of her home are several of past pope's busts, including JP II!

From there, we made our way into the center of the city, which resembles Assisi, being built on mountainous ground, and is a perfectly maintain example of the Renaissance life. Because Siena was conquered and economically/politically destroyed by the Florentines during the Renaissance, the city never recovered, and therefore, never progressed architecturally, academically, politically, etc. Because of this, the city is one of the best preserved Renaissance cities. Its beauty is very subtle, yet powerful at the same time. The famous Duomo is an architectural fantasy, known for its black and white zebra interior. From the outside, its similar to its Florentine counterpart, in that it is a feast for the eyes, with a dramatic facade reflecting the Italian Gothic and Romanesque period.

For lunch, we stopped at a bar for panini and coca cola light, and sat on Il Campo and relaxed. Piazza del Campo is shaped like a scalloped shell and slopes downward toward the city's town building. Its has been called the finest of any city in the world, probably because of the harmony with which it fits in to the city and with the people. All day long you'll see couples, families, friends, young children lounging on the Campo, relaxing, people watching, snacking and enjoying the city. We spent about 2 hours there, but I could have sat there all day...plus it helps that the sun was out and its still in the 70's throughout Italia!

I started a book on the way home, Four Seasons in Rome, by Anthony Doerr.....and I read 120 pages just on the train! I couldn't put it down, it was so good. Its a true story about this man and his family who move to Roma for a year while he works at the American Academy for Arts and Sciences, writing his third book. The catch is, he and his wife have just had twins 4 months prior, and they are picking up their entire life in Idaho and moving to a foreign country. The place they lived is right near my location is Roma, and many of the places he writes about I have seen or plan to visit. I definitely suggest it to anyone...its an easy read and very well-written.

Since being home, I've been super busy and trying to catch up on school work. But I'm HOME...yep that's what I called it...HOME! Its been 4 weeks, and I finally feel comfortable here, no longer a tourist. Its a great feeling, almost an accomplishment. Anyway, this week has started off quickly, with exams and papers and projects piling up. I have my first philosophy exam tomorrow morning, my Italian cinema exam Friday, as well as a theology quiz Friday! Tomorrow is my one night to go out....so I think we're going to go to a bar and watch the Roma vs. Chelsea game with some locals!!

Ok well that's enough for now. I'm going to try to get my pictures up tonight, but if not, tomorrow then. Sorry to be so long and wordy! Hope everyone is well.

P.S. Mom and Dad are on facebook...what has the world come to?!?!?!

Il sciopero trasporto...AHHHHH

Ok, so not to be cynical and all critical of Italia, but these strikes have got to go!! We found out yesterday at dinner that a transportation strike was planned for all day today! Yes, they plan the strikes here, about a month or two in advance, go on strike for a day, and then go back to work the next day, with nothing accomplished but a day off. So I should be on a train to Firenze right now, but it was canceled. I guess it has worked out for the best though; we get to relax tonight, have a free dinner at the hotel, save money by not staying at a hostel tonight, and have a good night sleep. But, now we're leaving on a 6am train from Termini and we arrive in Firenze at 9:51, just in time for a great day in the city. We're still visiting Siena on the way home on Sunday, but just a quick trip. The whole trip is quick, but I'm still excited to explore the two cities. Buon fine settimana!! Ciao ciao xoxo

Quasi il fine settimana!!

The school week is almost over...only one more class tonight and one more in the morning......and then I'm off to Firenze! I'm so excited for my first real weekend trip outside of Roma. Don't get me wrong, I love Roma, but it will be nice to explore other parts of Italia as well. We are leaving tomorrow evening after Hank's class, and we get into Firenze around 9pm...just in time for a glass of wine and dessert!! We're staying in a hostel with some other girls from St. Mary's, called Plus Florence (creative name!) , but we have a private room for the 3 of us with a bathroom for only 15,20 euro a night. Not too bad for booking a day before. Unfortunately, we don't have train tickets because the website won't take our credit cards, and the travel agency is ridiculous and has not had internet for two days! Can you imagine something like that at home....losing 2+ days of business because of internet?! It doesn't make sense to me. So we'll just buy tickets at the station tomorrow.

We're spending all day Saturday in Firenze, and then Sunday morning we are taking the train to Siena (just an hour south of Firenze). In order to get to Siena by train, you have to always go through Firenze, so we decided to combine the trips. Siena is home to Italia's patron saint and my Confirmation saint, Catherine of Siena. So I'm excited to see her sanctuary and house (Santuario e Casa di Santa Caterina) as well as Basilica di San Domenico, where a chapel is dedicated to her and her head is buried. Myth says that when she died in Roma of a stroke at a young age, the people of Siena wanted her body, but they didn't think they could get past the Roman guards with her entire body. So, they just took her head and carried it in a bag. The guards still stopped them, so the people prayed to St. Catherine; when the guards opened the bag, all they saw were rose petals. When the people arrived in Siena, her head reappeared in the bag. Kinda spooky! So anyway, Siena is where her head was buried. Her body is buried in the Basilica di Santa Maria sopra Minerva - near the Pantheon. I haven't been there yet, but its on my ever-growing list of places to visit. Anyway, it should be a great weekend. Sam isn't coming because she left today with her boyfriend Brett for a weekend in Capri. We'll all be visiting southern Italia as a class in a week and half.

The week here in Roma has been good, but busy. Everyone is still sick and I am trying to fight a cold. I am feeling a little overwhelmed, because there is so much I want to see and do here, but sometimes I just want to relax and rest during the day. Its the constant balancing act, that after 3 weeks I'm still trying to master. Its like my mom said the other day....Its as if you were trying to go to school and work hard at Notre Dame, while also trying to explore South Bend....only this is on a much bigger scale!!! I just have to take it day by day.

So, tonight I'm hopefully going to go out for a few drinks and enjoy myself since I've been staying in most of the week getting work done. I saw a friend, Melissa, from ND who is in the Architecture program and we're hopefully going to try to meet up later. The girls in my program are hooked on this bar Scholars (an Irish pub...but really just your average American bar) where you will only find the American college students who are studying in Rome. I feel like I can get that same experience back in South Bend at Corby's or the Backer....so why limit myself to that here. Most of the girls in the program are only 18 or 19, so this is their first real experience at a bar. For me, I rather go to Italian bars, sip vino rosso and prova a parlare con gli italiani!!

OK, well I'll write more after my Firenze adventure!! Ciao Ciao